Hi, about pigments: I cannot hide the stringers. I tried with different colors. I used 30cc of pigment for 900cc of poly resin. Put more seems that do not make any difference regarding opaqueness. The pigments are German.
-about tints: besides Yellow, what do you think that is a user friendly color to work? I see plenty of tint works that have too much splotches in the laps. Light Blue ones seems very problematic; also Violet and purples.
May be depends on the brand? because some tints seem less “aggressive” than others.
-Im not new in the shaping but like most shapers Im somewhat novice with tints et all.
scratch free perfect foam is important for tints…pour marks holes will all show badly… after stirring the tint well into the the resin strain the resin before adding hardner… bad lap cutting will show,straight up and down cutting with blade will score the foam resulting in dirty looking cut .{cut lap not cut foam is the idea hahaah }. side zipper cutting is much harder but so much cleaner . lime green and orange are easy colours if based on yellow… just add little blue or red…
dark or dirty colours are the hardest… rootbeer, marron ,brown,grey
Hi, yes, of course I know about all the other stuff; I have doubts about the pigment quantity or proportion and the tints that let the better results.
May be I ll try with those colors that you say.
Thanks
any dark colors are more difficult. Blue, purple, black…red. easier is light blue, yellow, orange etc.
Pigments are pigments. not knowing the brand or quality don’t know what to say. But most pigments will black out the foam…but you can barely make out the stringer.
You can add some white pigment to your color, so do blue, and add a bit of white to it, this will increase the black out power. But adding too much wil lighten up the color. You’d be suprised how much pigment it takes to make a deep rich color. I think I put 2 teaspoons of colorant to 1 quart of resin…something like that. usually keep adding color until I get the desired results, then I add the catalyst.
Hi Resinhead, thanks for your time; in my personal experience, I had problems with all types of Blue, and most of what I have been checking have splotches or problems; of course adding White or Black can increase the black out effect; I can add that Im a shaper but I glassed a few hundreds of boards; only a few with tints and pigments.
As I mentioned in the other comment, I used 30cc of pigment (Glasurit from Germany) for 900cc (almost a quart) of resin without too much success; and that I did not see any enhance if I put a bit more…hence all my questions.
For a full opaque i measure the weight of my resin on a scale and then add 10% pigment to the mix. With one layer bottoms ill also do a skim coat when the lam is semi dry to fill any gaps in the weave that could show the blank through the lamination.
Hi Zackoopman, so do you use 3 times more than me; seems a lot but may be that s the secret. No problems in winter with that amount and the gelling time?, you cannot put gobs of MEKP to try to catalyze that load and brittle the resin…
Collinlg, Im referring to pigments not tints; you can put whatever amount of tints and you ll finish always with a translucent color; pigments are opaques and almost all colors that I see with pigments do not show the stringer/s.
When using those powder tints do you mix the powder directly in the resin or do you mix it with something like styrene or some uncatalyzed resin to dilute it prior to mixing with your resin?
sorry lookinggood, my bad using tint (word) instead of pigment
actually my girfriend’s father when he gave me the jars told me that are pigments and not tint hahahaha
My opinion is to try something in powder.
I tried the same pigments but liquid insted of powder and the result was not the same, like u said translucent (not fully but something between opaque and translucent). With a very small amount of powder I get a opaque finish, but it also depends on the color. Of course is not the same using yellow or blue/green/etc.
Yep its alot but best way for that deep opaque. When you do your deck you can drop it back abit to around 7percent due to the double layer of cloth. But 10percent is easier to calculate so i normally just do that too for the deck. I use epoxy so different game with the gelling times. But yeah just add abit more catalyst than normal and its all sweet. this is one i did recently
this is one i did recently