Triming the cutlap

Hi!

Finished the glassing on a mini simmons me and a couple of friends are making from an old log. We lammed it opaque, a light green. One thing that was really a bummer was triming the cutlap.

One thing that we’ve found really difficult was to spot the line where to cut along the glass. The opaque resin in most of the board didn’t let see where was the tape underneath it. Any tips and tricks on how to do this a little bit easier?!?

Thanksssssssssssssss

I first read about it here on Swaylocks in a post by famous surfboard builder Gene Cooper.

use side lighting to illuminate the bump where the tape line begins.

You might try getting some black masking tape (art supply store?) and add a layer along the edge over your regular masking tape to see if it is visible through the laminate.  If not, the double thickness creates a step that will be visible as a 3D edge under the laminate.  Triple layered tape is even better for the 3D thing.  If you cut before it gets rock hard you can press the edge of the laminate down in the foam with a hard roller to get a more even surface when you go to laminate the other side.

What do you use for a roller, John?  

Hi Mike -

When I do it I use something like this one...

http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound-deadening-materials/hand-roller.php

If you have a bright flashlight or spot light out it under your board and the light should allow you to see the tape line. But I like 2 layers of tape better.

I did a black one once. Never again by the way…built up four layers of tape and sanded off the cut lap with my 2 inch right angle sander.

I try to stick to tints mostly and I do what John suggests…the auto parts stores sell a 1/4" black, red, or dark blue tape used for painting pin stripes. Note this is not “pinstriping” it’s the tape used as a pinstriping guide. It’s pretty thick…kinda like electrical tape.

Also pressing down the “cut” edge while the glass is still green and flexible is golden! I read one of John’s posts on that a couple years ago I think?? But wow does it work great!

I found a wallpaper seam roller with a curved surface, like these…

http://thepottingshed-anythinggoeshere.blogspot.com/2011/09/things-i-have-never-seen-before-1930s.html

Keep the high spot in the middle right on the raised edge, and it works very well.

Wow those are cool! I have just a cheap plastic one from Home Depot but it works just fine. I also have a laminate roller thats approx 4 inches wide. I use it on tint patches. With the right pressure you can press the edge into the deck and feather 3-4 inches of the patch. No high spots!  No sand throughs!  Just make sure to wrap some masking tape around the roller (black rubber) to protect the lam job.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GUNDLACH-Laminate-J-Roller-No-J200B-FAST-USA-Ship-/120844469269#vi-content

 

Two or even three layers of masking tape will give you a raised edge to cut at.  Then press your lap as mentioned above.