"The true surfing frontiersmen who create in obscurity are so far ahead of the regressive rat pack, it’s absurd."
Mickey Dora 
Da Cat
One of Grubby’s first delivery trucks.
Just thought I would share since we are reflecting on 40 years.
GIVE ME OBSCURITY OR GIVE ME DEATH
…harry biers grand father,
…pidgeon racer…
teddy avenue 1962
talking to him self
waiting for the
pidgeons to return
when obscurity dont cut it
absurdity will turn seriousness
…to levity,hopefully…
…ambrose…
levity is the oposite of gravity
Quote:
when obscurity dont cut it
absurdity will turn seriousness
…to levity,hopefully…
…ambrose…
levity is the oposite of gravity
ambrose m.curry III
“What is it,” Maestra had asked quite rhetorically, "that separates human beings from the so-called lower animals? Well, as I see it, it’s exactly one half-dozen significant things: Humor, Imagination, Eroticism - as opposed to the mindless, instinctive mating of glow-worms or racoons- Spirituality, Rebelliousness, and Aesthetics, and appreciation of beauty for its own sake.
“Now,” she’d gone on to say, “since those are the features that define a human being, it follows that the extent to which someone is lacking in those qualities is the extent to which he or she is less than human. Capisce? And in those cases where the defining qualities are virtually nonexistant, well, what we have are entities that are north of the animal kingdom but south of humanity, they fall somewhere in between, they’re our mising links.”
…Maestra’s stand was that missing links ought to be treated as the equal of full human beings in the eyes of the law, that they should not suffer discrimination in any usual sense, but that their writings and utterances should be generally disregarded and that they should never, ever be placed in positions of authority.
…In any event, of the six qualities that distinguished the human from the subhuman, both grandmother and grandson agreed that Imagination and Humor were probably the most crucial.
The finer points of their reasoning were vague to him now. There was something, to be sure, about how only those with imagination could envision improvements and only those with a sense of humor could savor a good laugh when those improvements backfired or turned to crap."
-Tom Robbins
Fierce Invalids Home From Hot Climates
George Freeth True-98 Years Later
Old school quiver.
This spring, I will have been at this surfing thing for 40 years, and I still can’t stop!! What is it with this thing?
Surfing - “IT’S THE REAL FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH”
1966… Oh yes, that’s 40 years… Not feeling so old inside, though…
Creating in obscurity, far ahead of the regressive rat pack, over 40 years ago: George Greenough
North Coast (Angourie) freefall 1965 - Photo by Tanya Binning
“The most outstanding photograph of committed high performance surfing up to this date, this level of performance was probably not achieved by stand up surfers for another ten years”
Consider the sophistication of his equipment and level of surfing performance achieved by 1965. One can only imagine what was never documented.
George Greenough and Spoon - Caloundra, Queensland 1966
Photo by Hayden Kenny
1960 - Laminated fibreglass, 2nd fin on a balsa kneeboard built in 1959
1962 - Greenough Twin Fin, Laminated fibreglass, photo by George Greenough.
Originally built as “a twin fin, but as time went on, I moved the fins closer together, and it kept working better and better. Eventually, it turned into a single fin!” George Greenough
Upper Drakes, circa 1962, photo by Richard Vincent
Stage III fin made for Danny Hazzard, circa 1967. Photo by George Greenough
Honolua Bay, Maui, circa 1967, photo by John Witzig
thanks for those , Norm !
…great shots of one of my ‘heroes’ !
and , nice to see you have added your location , too …
cheers !
ben
Maybe Greenough got his ideas from this:
Flexible rounded-hull bottom, variable rocker, adjustable flex and twist, scooped-out deck. Ridden on knees or sitting. Made the same way for at least 3,000 years. Paddle out, catch fish, ride the waves in.
typical quiver for different wave conditions
They even have a statue honoring their wave-riding
This guy thinks he’s Greg Noll
Cool pictures …
I have a trivia question for anybody.
Look at the clark truck photo, and figure out what is missing!!!! " Guys that where making boards back then should get it with no problem"
Take care of those old photographs. They’re history.
George Draper.
that would be the wood as everybody glued in there own wood back then