would the 9 inch true ames l-flex fin be too big for a 6’8 egg. would the 8incher be better suited to this size of board.
I have a 7’0 retro egg that I use a Harbour “nineteen” fin with. it is I think 10.5" flex with a huget base. Works for me…Just try various fins and see what you like best. Get a wonder bolt and change fins in the middle of your session.
“Just try various fins and see what you like best. Get a wonder bolt and change fins in the middle of your session. " Do I have to purchase a 7”, 8", 9", and 10" to see which one is best? Can I return the ones I don’t like? Do you know of a fin library where I can check them out for a week and try them to my hearts content? Looks like a good business opportunity - renting fins for tryout.
would the 9 inch true ames l-flex fin be too big for a 6’8 egg. would the > 8incher be better suited to this size of board. my suggestion is to play around with the 9" fin.If need be you can take area out of it a lot easier than adding it to the fin.
my suggestion is to play around with the 9" fin.If need be you can > take area out of it a lot easier than adding it to the fin. I agree with matt. 9" is not too big – in fact I’d say the other’s are too small. I’d also suggest starting out with the fin all the way back. I’ve used even bigger fins in my 6’6" egg. For example Paul Jensen’s raked and fat foiled redfin in the board archive – which you will be able to actually see once the archive is back up.
I am going to pick up the same fin for a board I am doing that is similar to one I ran across from Mr. Clay Bennett (great looking board by the way). Mine is 6’3", but the same kind of planeshape and pretty close to the same dimensions (but mine is flat to a slight double concave to a light vee in the tail). Mr. Clay Bennett says he uses a 6.5 to 7.5 inch fin but I don’t think they were the same type of fin template. I was going to get the 7" norm flex fin, but now I am not so sure. Perhaps the 8"? I can’t see going any bigger than that but then again this is my first shortboard single fin let alone with a flex fin. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh and thanks to Mr. Clay Bennett for answering some of my stupid questions on his site. 
Here is a link to see more of his boards. http://www.claybennettsurfboards.com/index.htm
An over finned board rides horribly…try and minimize drag and stiffness by using a fin that is just enough for the board, but not too much. After extensive fiddling,I have a 7.5 inch fin in my 6’9" that really works. An 8 inch fin of the same standard shape made it a dog and a rakier flex fin of the same length made it slide out. I would go with the 8 inch. I’ve seen 6 foot boards with 9 and 10 inch fins…overkill. Just my opinion.
I am going to pick up the same fin for a board I am doing that is similar > to one I ran across from Mr. Clay Bennett (great looking board by the > way). Mine is 6’3", but the same kind of planeshape and pretty close > to the same dimensions (but mine is flat to a slight double concave to a > light vee in the tail). Mr. Clay Bennett says he uses a 6.5 to 7.5 inch > fin but I don’t think they were the same type of fin template. I was going > to get the 7" norm flex fin, but now I am not so sure. Perhaps the > 8"? I can’t see going any bigger than that but then again this is my > first shortboard single fin let alone with a flex fin. Any help would be > greatly appreciated. Oh and thanks to Mr. Clay Bennett for answering some > of my stupid questions on his site. For you younger guys that have never hit a hard bottom turn on a bigger wave with a egg type single fin (or any single fin for that …longer is better elst one may be likely to spin out the tail. (9" is good. The suggestion to keep the fin towards the back of the box is a valid one. If it feels too tight then move it up a half inch at a time. I’ve started marking my fin box where I know the sweet spot is for diff. wave conditions. As for me…one can never have enough fins. I gives one a perfectly legitimate excuse to make a board for each fin you own. How can the wife argue with this logic? JC
For you younger guys that have never hit a hard bottom turn on a bigger wave with a egg type single fin or any single fin for that …longer is better elst one may be likely to spin out the tail. 9" is good. …OK…solid fiberglass fins are fine if you like weight and drag…In order to make a 9" fin out of fiberglass that is foiled enough to really go fast and be loose, it would be exceedingly heavy… I make my fins out of two layers of 1/2" baltic birch plywood, with an 1/8" clear Lexan core…Then I foil it so that it is fat at the base and super thin at the tip…two layer of 4oz. cloth…=LIGHTNESS+PERFORMANCE… This kind of fin has super groovy water release which makes it fast and loose…It bottom turns unreal!!!..I dare you to hit as hard a bottom turn as you can…you better hold on…Fast down the line becaude the foil is efficient…Are you getting the idea yet???.. Unfortunately there is no “fin company” making any thing like this…Of all the wood fins from the biggies, they are too flat to be much more than decorational… Performance is not a consideration… BTW…I’m not looking to sell fins…Maybe give some away, I don’t know…Why don’t some of you expand what you do and break free from the crap thats out there and make something unreal… Stepping down from the soapbox…Paul
For you younger guys that have never hit a hard bottom turn on a bigger > wave with a egg type single fin (or any single fin for that > …longer is better elst one may be likely to spin out the tail. I agree! I ride the rail super hard on the bottom turn, and when I used an 8in fin, I had no hold. I then used a 9in flex fin(rusty flex)…It worked better than the 8in rigid, but still not enough hold. I use a 10.5 flex now, and it works well for me. I am not looking for a snappy style when on my 7’ single, its more about drawing lines going rail to rail. I can turn my 10 foot superheavy weight banana with ease…so I have no problems with the egg.
…OK…solid fiberglass fins are fine if you like weight and drag…In > order to make a 9" fin out of fiberglass that is foiled enough to > really go fast and be loose, it would be exceedingly heavy…>>> I make my fins out of two layers of 1/2" baltic birch plywood, with > an 1/8" clear Lexan core…Then I foil it so that it is fat at the > base and super thin at the tip…two layer of 4oz. > cloth…=LIGHTNESS+PERFORMANCE…>>> This kind of fin has super groovy water release which makes it fast and > loose…It bottom turns unreal!!!..I dare you to hit as hard a bottom > turn as you can…you better hold on…Fast down the line becaude the foil > is efficient…Are you getting the idea yet???..>>> Unfortunately there is no “fin company” making any thing like > this…Of all the wood fins from the biggies, they are too flat to be much > more than decorational… Performance is not a consideration…>>> BTW…I’m not looking to sell fins…Maybe give some away, I don’t > know…Why don’t some of you expand what you do and break free from the > crap thats out there and make something unreal…>>> Stepping down from the soapbox…Paul I have to give a shout out to Paul.He sent me one of his 9.5" fins for one of my longboard spoons.It was exactly what that particular board needed!It turns smooth, with constant flow of speed and you can not feel it back there!ie no drag felt.plus, with the foil he puts in 'em, they make the board ride up higher in the pocket where the power is!
The suggestion to keep the fin towards the back of the > box is a valid one. If you have a flat bottom, I agree. If you have any appreciable roll or v however, the optimum position is gonna be up near the apex of the v (where the rail rocker and stringer rocker difference is greatest). Putting it back on the tail will result in a dead, decelerating turn. This applies to any shape fin and to any rail shape. This is why I aways asked for or installed as long a box as would fit for convex bottomed single fins. Newbs