Soul in the terms of surfing takes on many different forms. And surfers who have it come in all shapes and sizes. Basically, it comes down to having a love and understanding for the art of for surfing, a mindfullness. I would like to tell you about one of these such people, his name is Matt. Matt is from Maine, and grew up unattached from the surfing world. Recently, this past summer, he had the oppurtunity to get on a board a few times. You could tell from that first moment that he was definately hooked. The fall came around and by chance we had gotten jobs in down-east Maine. It was fall and I needed to surf but there were no established spots. (Anyone who knows the area will understand) So it was time to get out the map and drive. Matt got to come along on some of these trips and had the oppurtunity to see the pure power and grace of a hurricane swell at some really beautiful spots. After that the bug got him, he needed his own board. There are no surf shops around here, the closest one is about 5 hours away and shipping costs are too expensive. What other choice did he have? Obviously, he would shape his own. And so he did. Personally, I had my doubts, but he went out and bought an EPS block, epoxy, fiberglass and stringer material and did it. Not really consulting anyone about design or techniques was able to put together a not so terrible board that actually works decently. To correct his mistakes to to learn more Matt started his second last night. Im sure this one will be a good board that does very well in the water. Finally, let me add that it is December and the water temprature is dropping quickly through the 40’s he is still out in the water learning to surf. In fact we are planning to dawn patrol tommorrow. If thats not soul than I don’t know what is.
Waves move us in many ways.
GO MATT stop by if youre arround we’ll go surf down the street…YAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA HOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO EEEEEEEEEEEEEE ambrose in waipouli
the ocean will draw one who believes.traveling the far distances to ride the “worst waves” like hauling a 10 footer to lake michigan from east colorado cuz you cant live without the surf.