Has anyone seen or heard of a grit router bit that comes in a 1/4" shank (preferably with a roller bearing on it). I spoke to FCS and told them the current router with bearing set up for installing Fusion is good but would be better with tungsten carbide. The problem is the bladed router bits split the stringers when installing the center Fusion, or flying stringer material butchers an otherwise perfect install. With the current move to more ply stringers, the likelihood of this happening has increased.
My sales rep said he’d pass this along to the appropriate party, but who wants to wait if there is already something out there.
DS I guess I must of spaced it? Now that I’m using FCS I see what you mean. Monday I will put in a order for a dozen or so if FCS likes them they can buy them or I can sell them direct. I use to have long router bits made for cutting outline by the dozen and they would sell out the minute they arrived. Your right about the difficultity cutting out the wood. A spiral type flute would work better. A straight fute is kind of retarded for what we do?
We can fix it. I’ll let you know Monday after I talk to the Factory in Ohio that makes my bits for my CNC they can do all kinds of stuff for me. I kind of have a side business of making CNC parts. Sorry I missed what you where asking. It makes total sense to me now!
I need to post some update on the Yellow Pu vs Marko EPS tread.
Ding… thanks for getting back on this. I know you are busy (a good thing), and I defer to you with all your wood working background. I’m in awe of that experience actually! The spiral blade seemed to make a lot of sense to me as well and unless the tungsten carbide grit can cut like butter through the stuff we are doing, I would be inclined to go that direction. A spiral blade would probably put less strain on a trimmer motor anyway?
Thanks for your energy… sorry I’m so slow on getting at least two sticks to you for the files we talked about! The SVM’s keep evolving tho’ and the Ten Over just needs to get made.
Paul UK: I didn’t see the option for 1/4" on their site. True they could machine it but maybe they don’t feel there is a demand… they would be wrong.
Dead I knew you had a good models in the SVM and you still need to get your TEN OVER done. Keep those models for yourself and slay it. I have been working on my own modelss lately and the feed back is positive for a change.
I already have shop orders.
My main focus is HPSB’s.
I know it’s a saturated market but it seems to be working for me?
Your models will do good down south and you should consider marketing outside SB?
Let me re-look at the FCS JIG and come up with a better bit system for our 1/4" Collet Trim Routers we use for setting our boxes.
I hear you. Two shops in SD are interested in SVM’s and there is a record of sales there already. I’ve delegated to a sales rep for both accounts and web sales which his wife is doing the developing on as she is a marketing and web designer. She is also doing the FB stuff. I gave incentives to them so I can focus on building the boards, uh… duh!
I’ve worn many hats in the past, 8 to 10 employees, workers comp, etc. etc… this time I’m keeping it simple. I don’t need the most accounts, just good accounts, and we can share the benefit.
I've had good results using a very thin bit. Just a cheap one. It does a good job at cutting the stringer but not clearing the excess foam. Basically takes 2 routers. I hate using small laminate trimmers, I find them dangerous & under powered. A good fullsize plunge router is nice but the jig moving could be a problem.
I have a plunge router for fin box installs and big lumber, but I think it’s a breeze to plop the Fusion jig down and rout a shaped blank. Yeah I know, some guys say they will only rout thru their hotcoats, but I just don’t get it. Routing foam keeps my bit sharp forever and the new Fusion with mtetal trim cuts a perfect rout. I set them with milled fiber and a smidge of q cell and shortly after I’m ready to lay up the bottom.
Some guys have problems with bubbles but judicious use of a single edged razor solves that problem after laying up. Same drill when I do opaques whether epoxy or poly and they turn out so clean.
I’d hate to have my big router having to sit on the jig to do such easy stuff. Having to use two routers is totally opposite to my thinking. Everything I do for a one man production is about less being more.
I take 1/4 or 1/2 inch steel bar cut it into what ever length I need, scruff up one end with my grinder grit, dip it in epoxy, and roll it in either metal filings, 80 grit sand, or crush up walnut shells, let dry Then dip it again in epoxy.
I don't know...maybe it's because I'm a cheap bastard. But you can make a lot of these for about $10.00 worth of material. Works pretty good.
I used to buy CNC mill end High Heliux bits, but they are expensive for just cutting foam and a little bit of wood.
I love your resourcefulness. I do creative stuff like that from time to time…when I have the time. This winter has been good, so I was just trying to take the path of least resistance. I 've gotta wonder about the efficacy of walnut shells going up against basswood or spruce? The other approaches sound gr8.
Deadshaper, Howzit? Spiral bits are the ONLY way to go. Make sure you get the upcut spirals for boxes. They help to expel the dust as you go. Also if you rout through the hotcoat as I do, the carbide bits stay sharper longer and worth the extra expense.
Dead the bit that comes with the FCS Fussion Templat is very unprofessional. It does tear out the stringer and is a low quality bit. The install for the Fussion is so easy and straight forward. I know they are trying to make it afordable however it’s not worth it. I found the perfect bit that I will test once I fit a bearing on it. I will have about $30.00 invested in the bit and I can see were FCS might have a problem with that. However to make ones job smooth and easy is priceless. I may be wrong however just an opintion! Once I set up the bit I will post if anyone is interested?