witch is better…S glass or the less spendy E glass…I think the S glass is stronger but is it really worth the extra $4/yrd? my local supplyer only carries s glass…should I drive to Washington?or stick with the down the road 10.40/yrd s glass? Im not a production shaper but I want my creations to last.thanks for the input
i could be wrong but isnt e glass basically the standard surf shop ,name brand,etc…shure its not the best there is, but it must work right?
everything I have read would indicate S tougher than E. what size board (how much glass) will you need. 30 yds for a 10’ longboard the $4/yd will add up, but what will it cost you in time and gas to go to washington? I’d look at online prices if your local supplier does not have what you want. Seen a lot of links for supplyers recently in the forum. Recently told by a big name shaper that at least as important as the glass and resin or maybe even more important w.r.t. durrablity is the core which needs to support the glass. He said a soft core/blank or overshaped core will not support the glass/resin when it comes to potential dings and allow the glass to crush as the core crushes. Other want to comment on this?
buy another blank with the glass savings get the E surf washingtin … S can be more difficult task laminating make it easy…40.00 for somthing else good,maybe some costa rica stuff…used S glass for a while …then the gkass place charged me for S and the warehouse guy gave me Sileneby mistake and I didn’t realize til I was half way through n’ said carp lets just use the cheap stuff… ambrose…how much is a roll? glass 12 boards? through the summer? nelita wanna board? make her a Travis special with polka dots…
You can also use warp glass, stronger than E and usually the same price. Aloha, Kokua
kokua…wrap glass? is that the glass that has a angled weave and is used for doing curves on boats? I looked at it at the plastic(TAP) store but I just found 6oz for 5 bucks a yrd from a guy just down the street what a deal and I surfed my first board today and the stoke I can not explain… aloha and mahalo
S-glass is short for Structural glass. E-glass is short for Electrical glass – made popular by the electrical community. E-glass is the standard economical fiberglass and is good enough for most applications, such as surfboards. S-glass is 30% stronger and 15% stiffer than E-glass. If that increase in cost is worth this strength gain for you, then by all means go for it. But $10 a yard is a hell of a lot. FiberglassSupply.com sells carbon for that much. S-glass should be around $6/yard.
what’s the general consensus on warp glass? how prevalent is it in the industry? my regular shaper is a one man operation, mowing foam and glassing, and has been using warp exclusively in his boards for a while now. i do think it is superior, but even he says it’s a little stiffer and flatter, thus a bit more difficult to lap and quicker to float with too much resin laid in. he’s an incredibly meticulous master laminator, so he makes it look pretty easy, but i wouldn’t guarantee such results if it was me glassing. some things i seem to notice about the glasswork with warp, most noticable in a clear colorless board, are interesting. the cloth seems slightly less transparent than usual. it has this strange semi-reflective look in the finished glass job. also, when it is sort of breaking in over the first few usages, it seems like places flexing or getting compression stress become even more semi-reflective in the lamination. it’s not at all cracked or crazed, strength is unaffected, and the surface remains perfect, but it seems to have this almost microcrystalline reflectivity from within the lam which is really sort of amplified through a good gloss coat. has anyone else ever noticed this? could this be to differing flex with stiffer warp fibers within the polyester matrix? i’m not sure if he’s using silmar or reichold resin, so it may differ depending upon what resin you’re using. just wondering, as he’s been using it for quite a while now and has me pretty much signed up as a firm believer, but i seldom hear warp cloth mentioned much around the industry otherwise. what’s the consensus out there? -church
for those who may not be familiar, that warp glass simply has more of the yarns in one direction than normal glass, which has equal long-way and short-way yarns. Okay, so you get warp glass with more yarns down the length of the board, which makes it slightly more resistant to snapping. BUT… since what you gain in one direction you lose in the other, it may not do much for preventing pressure or other dings. No one has mentioned whether there are other advantages, so I assume not. So… anyone have a solid reason to use warp glass? I don’t a believe minor increase in resistance to board-snapping, at the expense of more small dings, is sufficient reason. If your boards have been snapping, they are just not strong enough (this is obvious) and they should be thicker (the best strength increase and/or more heavily glassed. At 230 pounds, and with my boards lasting years, I will stay with single lam bottom and deck, 2/3 length deck patch, and a foot patch, all 6 ounce E glass. Buy a roll and halve the retail price. I make my own boards, and always have, so I don’t pay hundreds for throw-away fantasies. Knock wood, it has been a long time (years) since one of mine snapped, but it has happened.
warp glass sucks
Howzit Reverb, Why don’t you like it. I’ve used it for over 7 years and it works really good for me. Could be the brand of glass since different manufacturers make it different. I use JPS, Clark Sweibal(spelling) was also a good brand but Hexel bought them out and I don’t care for Hexel glass. Aloha, Kokua
yeah kokua, i had used hexcel warp only and is really bad for boards…
hey kokua, are you in kauai isn´t it? did you meet roberto damiani i think this man work with dick brewer…
Howzit Reverb, Try the JPS brand, it’s a lot easier to work with. Aloha, kokua