Super keen to try out your placements. I have a 5’2" blank downstairs that has these all over it.
The canards are set parrallel to the mains and there is a 1 3/8" gap between the fin lines. The rear dot of the canard is exactly 1 3/8" over at 90* to the front dot of the main fins. Hope that makes sense.
(So you ruled a line 1 3/8" closer to the rail from a line.)
Oooooo
Maybe I can try a twinzer in the cornice build.
Chrisp, let’s see a pic of your board and fin set up!! Many thanks.
all the best
GregTate, pics should be on the first page of this thread.
If they don’t show up, let me know and I will try to figure it out.
Sk8ment yep.
I tried to find a drawing program on my computer to explain it better but I couldn’t…
Basically, mark out your main (rear) fin first:
Rear dot 8 1/4" from tail and 1 1/4" off the rail toed 1/4" over 4 1/2". So, measure 4 1/2" forward from your rear dot and make your front dot 1/4" closer to the stringer (remember to make the front dot 1/4" closer to the stringer and NOT 1/4" further from the rail. As the rail line changes).
So, now that you have your main fin line, make your canard line.
Draw a line parallel to the main fin line separated by 1 3/8" and closer to the rail. Now, on that new line, the rear dot of the canard fins is directly across from (perpendicular to) the front dot of the main fin. So, the canard fin line goes forward from that dot 4 1/2" staying parallel to the main fin line.
Hopefully that clarifies???
Gold.
This board is getting beat!
Got some 4WFS boxes in the mail last week.
Picked up a 60R yesterday.
The plan is to replace this board and have more adjustability with the fins. I really want to dial in the placement numbers. Ultimate goal being bamboo glassons routed into the foam. Gonna glass this one a little heavier also…
Drew some lines today. Gonna copy the tail and wide point numbers of the previous board and use the same template. But this one will be will be 5’10" with a chop nose.
For those interested, over the last 2 years, I have experimented with the 4WFS boxes on a couple of twinzers. All the numbers were/are good except, I like 1/8" toe better than the 1/4" toe that I previously mentioned…
I currently have a Marko Pescado blank sitting on my racks. Its shaped and sprayed awaiting fin boxes and glassing. Did my best to copy the blue twinzer from this thread except the blue twinzer is just a single concave fading to flat behind the fins. The board on my racks has a single into double with slight V off the tail…
Hoping to find the magic of the blue twinzer again. I will post pics when I can.
#stupidphotobucket
Hi Chris, I’ve been using 1/8" tow on the side fins for a long time. Sometimes I might do 3/16, but it’s usually 1/8". But I do 1/8" tow over 4".
Right on SharkCountry!
Griffin does similar iirc?
Pics…
More pics
I think so, but he has the back of the fins 1" from the rail, I have mine 1.5" from the rail.
One of my favourite threads on the internet.
Did you build yourself a twinzer Sk8ment?
Not yet ;(
Get on that!
Finboxes routed…
Some days you eat the bear, some days the bear eats you.
One of the router jigs for our 4WFS jig acidentally got chewed up a while back. No sweat, think it through. Making a router jig isnt hard. Just some leftover MDF and Masonite pieces to get the correct thickness then drill a hole with a 2" forstner bit.
Wow, those fin plugs are so close to the rail? I’d be worried they’d rip out during a big turn.
That’s interesting…
I never thought of that…
I don’t see any reason why being closer to the rail will make a fin more likely to rip out.
Also, the laps from the deck side make that area stronger imo
