Ist still had alot of shinys and small shallows after sanding. Just started to reach the weave. Another hot coat? Would guarrantee a sick gloss coat. Could sand perfectly. Don’t mind the weight as fish should have some. Brom fish are really heavy…
2G
Gotta rough up the shiny spots.
Next time, try to squeegee smoother and cleaner.
Gotta rough up the shiny spots.
Next time, try to squeegee smoother and cleaner.
it’s the result of non-smooth free laps. using cut laps is more time concuming but makes for a much smoother hotcoat
Some guys baste the rails just after the lam starts to gel, when you can flip the board over with wax paper on the stands. Just some sanding resin and brush, to fill the between the weave.
Or, you could sureform the cloth strands down to the lam coat.
Why didn’t you clarify it was on the laps in the first place.
As LeeDD says, a baste coat would help, but I envisioned a brushed-on coat of lam resin alone after the glass lam had set or cured. The baste coat needn’t cover the entire bottom or deck, just put it where you need it. Typically this in a band along the rail where the free-lap may be uneven.
I’ll admit that I haven’t needed (so far) as to use this technique yet, but it should do the trick when you or I need it.
Actually, though, you and we need to know why you have the shiny spots. Was the shape uneven and lumpy? Was the lam not squeegeed evenly? Was the glass really unevenly cut on the lap? What grit did you sand with, and are you competent with a soft pad?
Another lam coat brushed on like Charlie says is a good idea. If you just hotcoat again, you may have the opposite problem with weave showing when you try and get everything flat and level during sanding. Try and flatten/level on the first sanding pass using a medium 8" disk and 80 or 100 paper.
Most of my boards I do two hot coats, sanding in between. They have all come out perfect and I feel a more durable board. I have weighed my boards between hot coats, it has only added 1 lb.