Sept.1999 a favorite No. O.C. rivermouth break ,early/mid morning with a strong south swell on ,size:10-14’,incoming tide. The river is now more the beast to tame today.It’s breaking out on the tip of the long jetty about 1 mile off the beach. Two friends of mine longtime surfers and multi-winning competitors,one that rides for Katin,the other for Harbour(these are well seasoned 40+ yr old surfers with 30+ years under there belt).Pull up and go thru the ritual thing of getting prepared to go out.They ask me how it’s breaking ,so being I had been out already,I filled them in,and were chomping at the bit to get out,because both had new boards to try out.I noticed that they didn’t have leashes.They justified being cordless by: “I can’t walk the board”,“leashes are for dogs”,“I BEEN SURFING THIS SPOT ALL MY LIFE”.etc,etc I’m a expert,bla,bla,bla. Both boards took on major damage, one to the point that even with a great repair job the board never recovered from it’s beating.The other one got it’s box ripped out and received several dings.Later on that year, both said they had wished they would have used leashes on this day.Herb.
And it’s really shallow out there right now,all I need are some south swells.Herb.
And it’s really shallow out there right now,all I need are some south > swells.Herb. To quote Austin P. “Yeah Baby!” Magoo