I plan on making a 6’3" - 6’4" hull this spring. Boards dimensions would be about 6.3x17x21x15 1/2 x3 center point up 3 1/2 inch.I’m guessing a U.S. Blanks 6’10"A would be the right blank to use? I want 4" of nose rocker and 3/4" tail. It will have a little belly up front going to tri-plane pannels then into V pannels out back.10" single fin box 9" up from tail. I’m not sure how to order the tail rocker? Do I just say I want 3/4" tail rocker? I know sometimes they will say something like …“well, do you want the rocker altered from the middle or the tail?” I have no idea. If I ask them for a Hull blank as some here have suggested they say “we don’t have one.” If I ask them “how do I order a blank for a Hull they say “I don’t know”. The plan is to cut out about 4-5” from the nose and maybe an inch or two off the tail. I’m 44 years old 6’0" 185lbs. I’m surfing summer beachbreak and want something stable that I can stand straight up on ,goes really fast with not a lot of effort ,and stand with a narrow almost skateboard like stance. Plan on using a greenough 9" 4A fin. Anyone do these type of hulls around here? Thanks!!!
I’ve made a few beachie hulls, IMO you might want a little more than 3/4" tail. If you use enough V to be able to turn 3/4" tail the board won’t really be a hull.
If you bumped up to a 73A natural you could just center up on it and get a reasonable rocker. Most hull shaping is done out of very oversized PU blanks.
You should be able to ask US Blanks to reduce the tail (if you insist on the 610A and 3/4" rocker) as much as they can, probably about 1/2" max, and the shape in rest of the rocker change by taking some foam off center off bottom.
So when you say no more than 3/4" tail rocker what would be enough for a tri-plane hull? And I’m planning on doing a pretty shallow V in the tail,probably 1/8".
I was not aware that 1/2" rocker was the max they can take out of the tail. This helps me out, Thank you. So what numbers on the rocker should I have in your opinion, nose and tail and how deep would you do the V in the tail? I’m all ears! Thank you for your help.
I’d advise about 1 1/4" tail rocker, for beachbreak use. The really flat-tailed ones are point break specialists. 1/8" of V is about right. 4" nose is good too.
There are limits to how much rocker reduction they can glue into blank. They may tell you that the deck is going to be distorted. That doesn’t matter because you’re going to be removing a lot of foam deckside in the tail, there are no s-deck blanks (not enough demand to justify).
Hulls are a great shaping challenge, here’s a couple of tips:
Think of the rail apex as the straightest line possible across the profile of your blank; rail shape goes from high to low down this profile.
Consequently there are going to be spots where you’re taking off heaps of foam (deckside tail), and others where you’re barely removing any (deckside rail in area 1’-2’ back from nose).
I think I see the high to low thing on this pic…not real clear, but if you blow it up you can see…it looks like it kinda has an ‘edge’ about mid-board…and he’s obviously zero n out n tail…
Thanks guys. I’m so dun with those bannana chip disposible boards.I can’t believe I wasted the 90’s on them.wish there was more info on shaping these hull things.
ekim - I got a few basic start up info in my notes I can share.
The Tri planes are - just that ! Imagine taking the width of your board and divide by 3… Now you have to make three equal panels
the length of the board… so you would first draw the center panel with straight edge so that it’s even centered down the stringer…then the side panels are now there…so the next step is to v the side panels. So you can plane um, surform, block sand etc… hope this helps.
The foiling that - Mike described is very important. But you can probably get it close if you even put
Even a basic roll under nose and fade to a harder rail near fins as in doing a normal edge for rails. It might not be Ideal? So I’m thinking the proper foiling would likely make it more authentic. But then -George Greenough would know best bcuz I think it’s his creation?
Thanks for the help.
I think if I order a 6’10"A and take out 1/2" or “all” the rocker in the tail ,and order the nose at 4" ,cut 6" off the tail that would give me a 6’4" blank with 4" nose rocker and about 1 1/4" tail rocker like Mike said.
In the meantime here’s a picture of the rockerline on my favorite board. My 7’11" Bob Duncan wilderness tri-plane-hull.
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/wilderness.JPG
Honesty, I think you could use a fish / egg blank and be ok. But getting the thicker blank would give you more rm to do your tri plane panels.
ekim - I just posted on my build ! I am thinking about it, or doin a tri plane hull…but I haven’t shaped in awhile, but I think I might do a slight displacement hull…but on fishes some folk’s do the roll to v thing…I might go that route for now. But after planing down a fish blank - the rocker is VERY low, so I think you could grab a bigger fish/egg blank pu or eps and be setup well. Up to you though. I do know the fish/egg blanks are ideal for tri plane hull boards though.
Hey Shapaholic2011. You brought up Manny’s TPH’s in another thread. His only have 3/4" of tail rocker. I’m not sure how he shapes his but they seem to turn fine.
Hi Ekim-
We can walk you through how to get the rocker you’re after. It’s a pretty simple process and all of our guys at the shop are experts on rocker adjustments. If you order your custom blank(s) by Mondays at 10am we can have it for you Wednesday of the same week. BTW, custom rockers do not add anything to the price of the blank and either does glue color!
Let us know if we can help.
Brad
Go with your feelings, it’s your board…all I was trying to say is, in the event you had a blank with more tail rocker in the one + range a tri plane hull should work. I think once you went beyond two and a half then worry… that’s all im saying. Good luck on it man. - Jim