uncured hot coat

I’m having trouble with applying a hot coat to a board repair project. I have a longboard of which I have made multiple repairs (some rather large) on the bottom. All of the repairs came out well and all I want to do now is apply a finnish coat to cover the sanded areas and make it look uniform. I’m using polyester Ding All sanding resin. Two different times I have applied a thin coat with correct hardener ratio and both times there have been patches where it seems the wax didn’t rise. If you look at a certain angle, you can see glossy patches that are tacky. I shook the hell out of the jug to thoroughly mix the wax before measuring and adding hardener but it seems something is still going wrong.

Any suggestions are appreciated. 

maybe you didn’t mix well enough after you added catalyst. Maybe you over worked the resin as the wax was rising so it didn’t cure properly. I’ve read that if you put some catalysed resin on top of the bad spots that it will help those cure more. I’m no expert. 

Hola,

A few months back I had a similar issue of my hot coat not curing. My problem was substantially worse as I was hot coating an entire new board. It became evident to me that for whatever dumb reason I never put in the catalyst(MEKP) which is obviously a no no. It didnt even try to dry in the slightest. needless to say I was dumbfounded and extremely lost on how to proceed. I had a couple options…

  1. wipe all that crap off with Acetone and try to start over.

  2. do another hot coat right over the top. This would have made the board very heavy and hard to do over a tacky hot coat.

  3. try a trick I read about somewhere on the old internet. It may have been on here or greenlight surf supply’s sight or something.

I went for option #3, which is applying wax paper to the uncured hot coat. Go buy wax parchment paper and slowly lay it over the uncured hot coat free of any air bubbles if possible. Its not quick or easy but works. The wax paper is creating an air tight layer between the resin and oxygen. This lack of oxygen(i believe) allows the resin to cure. Once it dries 24-48 hours you can pull the wax paper right off with no issue. You may have some rippling and such going on now, but it is dry and sandable.

Give it a shot, it has worked for me.

Also, maybe you are working with old resin and chemicals. It should have cured even slowly if there is any catalyst in there at all.

Good luck

1 Don’t shake the bottle/jug. Stir it with a paint stick. Unless a jug of resin has been on the shelf for a very long time the SA wll be mixed in just fine. Shaking the jug causes bubbles. You don’t want bubbles.

2 As suggested above, you brushed it too much. Typical rookie mistake. Brush it on quick and even. Do your last passes running from nose to tail and back again. Then leave it **alone. **Over brushng once the batch begins to kick will disturb the surface layer of SA. Poly resin is air inhibited and the SA forms a barrier which allows it to harden completely. Disturb that barrier after it begins to form and you get sticky spots. Applying the resin too thin will also cause this.

One trick that sometimes fixes this is to put sheets of waxed paper on the sticky spots and give it a couple of days to harden.