I just recently glassed the top of my board. Some of the other ones ive done in the past came out nicely, but this one didnt get completely saturated. What can I do about it, the glass is already hard. Its not terrible,but any help is appreciated
So what’s keeping you from mixing up more lam resin and re-wetting the deck? Are the voids so deep that new resin won’t penetrate? You’d be surprised, as the solvents in the resin (ie. Styrene) will melt their way into the existig lam. Please clarify situation…
uh, well, its on a 6’0’’ thruster, i was just wondering if putting more lam on after its dried will help at all
The type of “dryness” will dictate what action can be taken regardless of wether it is a thruster or whatever. If the pin-air is near the surface then you can apply more lam resin and it should help. If the air is deep then you’re done, just hotcoat. Lastly realize why it happened in the first place: too much pressure? not enough resin? too little catalyst? hope this helps…
you know …I had air bubbles on some of my boards… and it was mainly because I kicked too slow the lam resin mix so the foam soaked the resin and produced air bubbles… we learn from mistakes… trial and error…
Cabeto
I just did the same thing and I think my mistake was like plusoneshaper said, a combination
of too much pressure and too little resin. I pressured a little bit harder on the brush when
hotcoating and it took some of the air and unsaturated cloth away, but still some air and unsaturated cloth. I wont do the same mistake again.
-yoshio.
Cabeto,
I used to get the same problem occasionally. I noticed on a sprayed board that the glass wanted to move around more when sqeegeeing…mmmm…The paint was keeping the resin from soaking in very far and alowing the cloth to slide a little. Too much paint, and if you press too hard you get the “crystalization” look thing. I tried an experiment and so far have had great results. I have been spraying the foam on the clear boards with “future” clear acryllic the day before glassing. It partially seals up the pores in the foam and prevents oversaturation of the foam. My lams are noticeably lighter and more “taught” feeling. The future also helps keep the white whiter longer. One note to “future” users…take heed of the direction “can be recoated in 8 hours” you must let it dry/cure for minimum 8 hours before glassing so that all the moisture is out and it has set. Just a tip I have been using that seems to work well.
Krokus
If you don’t stir the resin and catalyst long/thoroughly enough you can get some air bubbles.
Hey Krokus… thanks for the tip… It makes sense… I will try it on my next board to see how it works…
Cabeto