Update to offcuts thread

General Discussion
1

I’ve finally finished shaping the board referenced in this thread.

http://www.swaylocks.com/…;;page=unread#unread

Outline kinda looks like the Dartfish posted by NuclearFishin a few days ago.

Here is thte rocker.

The rails were really hard for me this time. Much worse than the last board, I feel like I’m going backwards.

But I managed to struggle through and get them to a reasonable point.

The glue lines presented a problem. As you might guess, even with a sanding block the foam on either side of the line wanted to show a depression. The bottom had super slight channels running the length of the board til spent more time getting it right.

Here is a picture of the glue lines. In the light of the flash I can still see a slight shadow on the 2nd line nearest to the wall.

Now for my problem.

I thought the glue would add enough rigidity to make a stringer not necessary. The board flexes somewhat more than I am comfortable with.

What are my options?

I thought about adding a stringer now but don’t want to destroy the rails with clamps.

I thought about using a router and cutting a 1/4" x 1/4" ditch the length of the board and filling it with wood? Fin rope?

Don’t know how that will turn out or will it even help?

My other option is to just glass it and see what happens?

Would a different glass schedule help?

3 layers of 4 oz. on the deck instead of 2 layers of 6 oz.?

2 layers of 4 oz on the bottom instead of 1/6oz.?

Right now I have very little money in materials tied up. Maybe 5$ inglue.

So the end result is only important to me emotionally.

Chris

Edited because I just realized the shadow on the gluelines it on the deck. The bottom looks good.

2

I just made a stringerless fish out of EPS deck / XPS bottom. I glassed it with double 4 bottom and triple 4 deck with a 3" rail cut in the center top and bottom. No problems (yet). Go for it. Leave the stringer out, you’ll be glad you did.

3

nicely done. know what you mean about the glue lines. a planner would be the best bet on the deck and bottom. not sure about the rails. perhaps glue some 180 grit to a stiff but bendable backing for the rails?.

anyway, skip the stringer on that short board, you’ll never miss it.

keep going and post more pic’s

4

whats up man? its been some time, ive been working up in jax, hows the first board holding up? (the one i glassed), you should triple 4oz the deck and double 4oz the bottom, double lap the bottom lam and triple lap the deck, you might even want leave more cloth on the laps so they overlap onto the other side, this way you get some stiffness from 5 layers of glass aroung the rails, did you use 1lbs offcuts for this?

5

Hey man its a great effort considering the difficulty…

I know exactly what you had to deal with, having done just the same multiple glue-up in XPS some years ago, ala Gary Linden’s “Recycler”

The first one had a series of sand-throughs in the glass around the rails due to the high points created by the glue lines around the rail profile. This required rail tape glass patches and a fair bit of grief.

The next one was better, but the time consumption factor in the following technique meant I did’nt pursue it further, opting for complete blanks.

I took a dremel with a router base, carefully taking the glue-line down just prior to final screening with gauze:- A long stick pinned to the foam for the straight lines along deck and bottom, and freehand around the rails. The effect was to recess the glue line just enough to give me a clean rail profile at these glue line points and the resulting board maintained my intended outline with no bumps.

If you do another multiple glue-line blank, also consider using only a bead of glue which does’nt actually make it to the blank surface…a bit tricky.

Take solace in the fact that even really experienced shapers can battle with these rail hard points, as are commonly found in triple-stringer longboards.

Speedy

6

OK, I’m just gonna glass it.

3 layers/4 on the deck

2/4 on the bottom.

I’ll wrap the rail like you mentioned DS.

DS the last board is holding up well. Fin box problem but that will be sorted out soon.

Not a glassing thing.

Speedy, if I can walk off with some more of those offcuts I’ll take that advice.

Otherwise I think I’ll start with real blanks from now on.

Rained this morning so I guess I should wait til tomorrow to glass.

I’ll post pics when I’m done.

Chris

7

this is a really cool project - the shape looks great!

8

Hi Riddim,

if you want to add a stinger I’d suggest you not to cut your board in two pieces, insert a stinger and then glue the whole thing together. By doing this your blank will lose its natural strength, even if it’s made of different stripes glued together.

My suggestion is - since you need less flex and I guess more strength- to add a stinger that’s placed perpendicular to a normal stinger. I’ll try to explain, keep in mind that my english is not so good.

This stinger will be a curved one, placed inside a hole in the board’s bottom. Look at the link here

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=234683 and check out the pics.

That’s a board I made with poor materials two years ago: I put the stinger on the bottom’s surface and then I glassed it. You should fit the stinger inside the board, like if it is a thin but very long fin box, and then glass the whole thing.

i surfed my board this summer and i have to say that it rides very well, even if it has this strange stinger on the bottom. Very stable and fast enough for the sloppy waves I found.

It’s also great for beautiful wipeouts :wink:

Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Stefano

9

Holy shite!

That was really hard.

Why didn’t anybody warn me?

Or maybe it’s just me.

I finished laminating the board. 2/4oz bottom, 3/4oz deck.

The deck was incredibly hard. This is my first shot at glassing and 3 layers is pretty difficult to deal with.

I totally buggered the nose and tail, where my relief cuts are. The fiberglass was so thick(3 layers) I just couldn’t get it to lay down.

I’ll clean it up later I guess.

Just trying to keep the pics coming so nobody gets bored here on Sways.

Chris

10

tavlas, I just now saw your reply. Sorry I didn’t respond.

That was one of the things I was thinking about. I guess there are no original ideas here.

You guys have done everything. Some day I hope to catch up.

Looks great. I just went with glass. Time will tell.

Thanks

Chris

11

Uh oh, Chris… usually just one layer from each side actually wraps the rails. The layers under that one get cut at, or just inside, the wide point but don’t turn the corner.

What you did is no problem for the finished product, but as you found, makes the process a lot more difficult. :wink:

12

Oh…That’s too funny.

Really?

Yeah, that’s really funny.

If you only knew how hard I worked at it.

Shoulda bought Glassing 101.

5:30 in the morning here on the East Coast.

If I don’t stop laughing, my wife is gonna wake up.

Thanks Benny

I’ll write that tip down somewhere.

Chris

13

console yourself, the board sould be bombproof with that much glass!!!

LOL!!

What I do with difficult tails and noses is cheat. Yep, I cheat, you see I am not a pro, just a backyarder so I don’t have magical shears and the jedi-glassing "you don’t need relief cuts " shizzle going… so I use cling foil and basically squish the tips with tight cling foil till they stay put… it works…

good show with the offcuts board !! Recycle the planet!! wOOt!

14

In a recent thread, I think it was Bill, mentioned the difference between wings and bumps.

I learned from that post, something new.

I think these qualify as wings?

Think they’ll slow me down?

I have some sanding to do.

Chris

15

One more shot.

I added this to my racks for glassing.

Should have added all these pics at once, so as not to be a post whore.

Sorry.

Chris