I know its been discussed in the archives a lot in the past but I really need to here few more updated reviews about those blanks,
so till now ive only managed to put my hands on Usblanks and Arctic and ive noticed that arctic is a little bit more suited for handshaping the usblanks but nothing major about that one.
ive also noticed that the arctics are much more softer than usblanks and get way more heel dents than the us(arctic green density and usblanks blue density) and this one is big deal for since lot of my boards are used for kiting.
im wondering if you had the same experience as me and I will also like to hear from the guys that used those brands and how is Millennium compared to them, softer/stronger/whiter and what else…
Arctic Green is lighter than USB blue.
That being said. I loathe USB foam. Constant crap and no caring about the problems from USB. We glass a bunch of USB , and it has problems from those shapers as well.
ok,
I saw on in your Instagram page that you shaped a Millennium blank, what your thought on them comparing to arctic?
Care to elaborate on the glassing problems with USB?
Just full of holes. Horrible glue ups. Heavy boards because it sucks resin like a sponge. Etc etc.
any thoughts about the Millennium?
I had a custom stringer USB longboard where the stringer glue up was pretty crooked.
Their red density do soak up a lot of resin.
How are millenium as far as soaking up resin?
And arctic?
I use a lot of US blanks and have almost never had problems with glue ups, holes, etc. Maybe someone is sending you seconds.
My local supply house sells USBlanks and I get good quality and service from them. I’d say the stringer glue-ups and foam densities have been (for me) consistently good quality - no worm holes, etc. I had a number of the old Clark blanks with funky stringer work and occasional worm holes and pour line crusties in the mid parts of the blank.
Being that we get / got them directly from them… np.
I’ve experienced too many problems with USB PU blanks. Will never use again. I’d like to try Millennium or Arctic but there are no distributors drive-able from where I live on the east coast (US). I’ve been really dialing in the whole EPS/Epoxy process and loving the stability and consistency of the medium. YMMV.
I have never had any problems with usb glue ups but I do 90% of the glue ups I need myself.
I’ve had quite a few blanks with worm holes. If I was doing a tint id be pretty bummed.
I never seen a blue density blank that didn’t tare. I’ve tried two planers, new blades, sharpening blades - if you move at a normal pace they tare. - I’ve seen a few other people shape them and the problem is not me.
I like their customer service.
On the central coast we don’t have any other options but when I was down in Orange County I still used them.
Where are you on the east coast…I know a guy. ;^}
I’m just a backyarder. So far I’ve only shaped one Millennium but we’ve had other boards in the house made of it as well. Its probably the whitest and least yellowing of any of them.
Interesting, quite diverse opinions.
My take: I handshape and glass 3 to 5 blanks a week.
I used to do 50/50 ratio between UsBlanks (Blue) and Millennium (Yellow and Blue density). 2 months ago.
Millennium foam shapes really nice, performs good in the surf. The Yellow felt way to soft to my taste for handshaping so I decided to use only Blues.
I had many with crooked stringers, that you could see easily. Many with width variations. 10 inch left side, 8 inch right side… some glue ups problems.
I like my blanks with 4mm Plywood for the shortboards. I find that UsBlanks plywoods look better quality than the millennium.
Now, Im using mainly UsBlanks, red for the shortboards, blue for hybrids, eggs and bigger boards. I got a batch of 250 blanks. May have shaped 75 already and I had no big issues at all.
Some pinholes (no different from Millennium).
I had NO crooked stringer and I find that their glue ups are spot on. Blanks are clean, with no glue residue. No tears in the shell. I like to grab a clean blank and start handshaping. Its a good start. I check every blank before shaping.
For some people this doesnt matter or they dont care. I do.
USB Red, shapes nice and easy. I had some tears with the skil100 or the hitachi. No problems with my Accurate planer.
I weigh every board when finished and Im really happy with it. Together with Poly resin Silmar 2880 Im achieving super white boards. (and they last white)
Havent shaped Arctic in a while. Last time was no good.
Slasholaf,
How was the Blue density millennium?
Was it softer than the blue usblanks? More/less heel dents? ± same weight?