Have been fascinated bby these boards since I first read the “sixfeet to fit” article in allbout surf many years ago. But since I mostly surf small beachbreaks I gave up on ever surfing one.
But what about the more user friendly Hulls like the Andreini Vaquero, Anderson Bojorquez, Hilbers Microant and the Liddle Inbetweener? Correct me if I’m wrong but these boards are suposed to be a good introduction, easier to surf backside in short pocket beach/reef waves.
Here is my question:
Is the “feeling” of surfing a hull lost with these boards, how far can you go/tweak the hull concept before this happens?
“It is not meant to be a visual experience, it is for the “feel” of these board.”
In my limited personal experience…The farther you get from a single flex fin, the farther you get from the “feel”. Boards shorter than, say 6’10", just need bigger or better waves to “feel” right.
I understand that a long lined up pointbreak would be ideal, but if the hull is long enough(8ft+ inbetweener for example,me 6’2 200) and if the waves are clean, maybe these boards could work in our cold empty waves?
Paul Gross said he liked 9ft+ hulls for weaker waves, wonder if you can still get the “feel” on longer hulls? That’s what it’s all about in the end isin’t it.
sami - those waves don’t look like ‘dribble’ to me. i’d go ahead and get a hull if i wuz you. i’d even consider the pointbreaker for some of those waves pictured – especially that left seen through the trees.
Agree with LeeV, the single flex fin gives the full experience. As for you, it probably depends on the length of board you are used to riding and how you will adjust to the style of using a hull. Back in the day, I rode shorter stubs 6’4 to 6’6 and thinned out. Down here its a lot of reef breaks. Now at 5’9 190# I have a range of Liddles, 6"8 Pb’er and M3p, 7’0 and 7’4 PB, and a 7’6 H-kine. My favorite is the 6-8 PBer, with the 7’0 next. Get a lot of drive and glide, and ability to maneuver as need be. If this style of surfing sounds good, then one of Greg’s boards will do you well
We don’t get waves that often, but when we do theres always a clean empty wave to be found. After 7 years of searching I’ve found enough bays and points that any messy swell will bend in and be cleaned up.
That lefthand ponit for example is a real jewel, but it’s very fickle only gets good 3-5/year, other days it’s only surfabble on a surmat.We do get bigger waves just not as often as I’d like. But when these spots are on, theres no other place I’d like to be. At this point in time with two kids(2month and 2year old boys) I can’t handle more than 2 sessions per week at the most.
P.Blom on the biggest day of 2007
Inherent blissful trim at the instant you get to your feet, surfing by yourself for yourself,that’s what I’m hoping for on a hull. Now that I know you don’t need a long point wave or have to string together 6-7 bottom/top turns to reach that feeling, surfing a 8+hull in our waves doesn’t seen impossible anymore.
Greg writes smoothie on most of his hulls - pointbreaker/inbetweener doesn’t matter - however the shorter stubbies (around 6’4 and below) which aren’t quite as smooth he calls stubbies - smoothies/stubbies has nothing to do with the model - just how much glide they have.
as for riding them in northern europe - looking at your pics i would highly recommend them - i take them out in lesser conditions - i feel there is a lot of hype as to how these boards have to have a point wave - i pretty much exclusively surf them on beach break conditions and find them amazing - they beat sections with ease and have such a unique feel - fantastic! Only thing i find is it needs to be reasonably clean.
I would not necessarily recommend going too long either - i have a 6’10 pointbreaker and a 7’6 inbetweener and find they both go great - of course i could get more out of the boards on a nice point but then again i would on pretty much any board! (I have to wait for my now sadly rare surf trips for that!) The 6’10 flies and loves whatever i throw at it - i’ve never had an issue riding them back side.
Just my own thoughts - but highly recommended - everyone should experience “that” feeling!
