I have a few odd bits of ~1m by 600m glass (2oz and 3.7oz) can I use these with a 100mm lap under compsand skins.
seems a good way to clean the shed of scaps.
cheers
I have a few odd bits of ~1m by 600m glass (2oz and 3.7oz) can I use these with a 100mm lap under compsand skins.
seems a good way to clean the shed of scaps.
cheers
we do it all the time
sometimes the wet out can get tricky preventing all the small pieces from moving around so roller work best versus a squeegee or brush unless you dab.
Purists won’t like it lack on integrity etc etc but other than making fin cores or putting on fins or doing repairs it’s a good way of not wasting the stuff.
Thanks Oneula
went ahead and used it on my first attempt at a compasand, also included 100mm wide 6oz tape placed on a diagonal pattern alla sab’s tophat but without the timber thickness to help with my fat knees duck diving. So I will see how it holds up
boards due out of the bag in the morning… ah the smell of hot oil from the fridge compressor is so so sweet
cheers
Papier mache technique
for non structural concerns
where controled flex
and such other higher
minded concerns dont come into play.
I have worried and saved and stored
scraps,nothing delighted me more
than giving a couple strips of selvege
to a guy fixing a buckle.
today the scraps went to a cause worth
saving the scaps for.
…ambrose…
Do you ever notice any difference in adhesion (ie delamination) wher you’ve put the glass as opposed to where the wood is epoxied directly onto the blank?
bottomline is you’re creating more seams and overlaps under the balsa which can lead to problems if you are looking for “perfection” If you’re just build a board for yourself then why not think of the land fill a little more…
But yeah there are problems that might surface latter
epoxy on foam could be heavier depending on how you seal. the under glass creates the “true” sandwich of the wood…Don’t know the benefit of the bind to the foam I see it more as protecting the wood’s properties.