I am about to give UV resin a try on glassing a newly finished shape. I have a bunch of 10oz volan that I’m gonna use and I was wondering if anyone has experience with the activation of the resin with 3" laps over the rails? Since they are under the board will the laps stay wet after the deck has hardened? Any tips on the best practices are appreciated.
I am about to give UV resin a try on glassing a newly finished shape. I > have a bunch of 10oz volan that I’m gonna use and I was wondering if > anyone has experience with the activation of the resin with 3" laps > over the rails? Since they are under the board will the laps stay wet > after the deck has hardened?>>> Any tips on the best practices are appreciated. The laps will stay tacky compared to the area that has direct exposure, the exposed part will totally kick if exposed to direct sunlight in about 3 to 5 minutes. Your laps will be tacky but they will bond to foam, so you should have no problem flipping it over and allowing the lap to totally kick. My advise is to take a small sample of your resin and place in your glassing area in the same lighting environment you are going to lam your board in and see if it reacts (kicks) to your lighting. You want to make sure that you are not letting any UV light in from the outside in, and that the lighting in your lam area does not react to your resin. That is the great part about using this resin is that you can take as long as you want to working with it. Another tip mix a separate batch of resin, a small amount, and put a very small amount of catalyst in it that will be used for under your laminate (design on rice paper). If you have a dark logo the UV won’t go through the paper and the resin under your logo will kick slower than the resin with full UV exposure. The result if you don’t logo may bubble up. If you use catalyized resin under the logo you know it will kick and can be sure that the resin bonds to the foam. I just use enough catalyzed resin to cover the bottom of the logo and use the UV for the rest. I think you will like using this resin additive, you can get a lot done quick.
I am about to give UV resin a try on glassing a newly finished shape. I > have a bunch of 10oz volan that I’m gonna use and I was wondering if > anyone has experience with the activation of the resin with 3" laps > over the rails? Since they are under the board will the laps stay wet > after the deck has hardened?>>> Any tips on the best practices are appreciated. Before I built a UV box I would put the board in the sun for about 5 min exposing only the top. After I would bring is back in the glassing bay and flip it over. With a 3" paint roller I would RE-SATURATE the laps and take back out to the sun. This seems to help get out the tiny air bubbles in the lap from the blank soaking up resin. Good Luck. Dave
I’m going to assume you are using sunlight as the light source. Once you carry/roll the board out into the UV/sunlight the underside will kick slower but it will still get enough reflected light to start going off. This delay can be a benefit sometimes, you can walk it back inside and safely flip it over to closely inspect for dry spots in the lap or other mistakes when it was upside down. (cut laps can be done at this stage too). Otherwise as you take it outside just flip it over to fully expose the laps. **just a note- if you are using 10oz. Volan then I assume you’re doing a long board. Test the UV resin you will be laminating with to make sure your ambient light isn’t going to cause problems. Mine are on 10 foot ceilings so they don’t interfere but they will still set off a batch of UV after an 45 minutes -1 hour. Tom>>> I am about to give UV resin a try on glassing a newly finished shape. I > have a bunch of 10oz volan that I’m gonna use and I was wondering if > anyone has experience with the activation of the resin with 3" laps > over the rails? Since they are under the board will the laps stay wet > after the deck has hardened?>>> Any tips on the best practices are appreciated.
I noticed when I did a little ding repair on a fin box that had cracked that the resin under the surface didn’t go off. I would assume that when installing the box I should use regular resin with catalyst instead of UV since there is a fair amount of resin under the box (which is not exposed to the sun)? Thanks for all your replies! I can’t wait to get this sucker in the water.
I noticed when I did a little ding repair on a fin box that had cracked > that the resin under the surface didn’t go off. I would assume that when > installing the box I should use regular resin with catalyst instead of UV > since there is a fair amount of resin under the box (which is not exposed > to the sun)? For the finbox, you can use the “suncure” resin (premixed) – just add some catalyst to it. Also, be aware that suncure will kick in ambiant or reflected light. Its best used in a windowless enclouser. Shine http://users.leading.net/~shine