Just attempted my frist glass job, i used uv solar cure in the lam resin, i added a very small amount of MEKP, to aid cureing before i took board out side to solar cure. I found that moving board just made a mess of the lamination, seem not worth it. i only used solar cure to help me in my frist attemp, any tips to help next time, wot about uv bulbs in the glassing bay? Or just to help it kick to it is easyer to move into the sun light.
sounds like you moved a bathtub full of water.
Laminating should be relatively squeegeed out and ‘dry’( a relative term)
hey you have been given answers to this subject before why start another thread on the same sh##t
**
**
cheers huie
ok ive been and dug this up for you this removes the whole mystry.
this is what i did to keep it all as simple as you can get it
i put a glassing stand right next to the roller door in my w/shop
close door
glass board as nrml push laps tight
give it a final check put al gear out of the impending uv
open door pickboard up walk it into sunlight
aim the glassed area bottom or top (try not to let the laps see to much)
around 40- 60 sec dont cook it
when i walk the board out i grab a frezzer bag for each hand ( keeps everything clean)
touch the deck or bottom should be flippable
take board back in side flip, now hears the part you will like
the laps will still be wet so you can work on them to your hearts content (close the door of course)
once yr happy take board out in sun face laps to sun 40 - 60 sec should
if you do a cutlap same as above but you can only flash it enough till it has that nice feel to it to make the cut when cut just expose it again 60 seconds put it up in rack do next one and on and on haa’’
ok listen up heres one for the enviroment & your health’’
hot coats lets say we have 10 boards to do
what we need is resin uv of course waxed
a 4’’ brush the std white bristle that we all seem to use’
nothing else ( yes thats right no acetone no mekp)
here we go oh one more thing sunshine
know from the well placed stand that i mentiond above
we get enough resin out to do the job i keep this in the other room so the uv dont f##k with me
brush out the resin as per nrml then put brush and excess resin back in room
wait a moment or two to let the wax rise in the hot coat run your finger around rail
with frezer bags on hands pick board up go flash it as above but this time aim the rails on both sides as well a minute or so will see it ready to do other side repeat then wrack board & move on to next remember the brush can just sit in the excess resin waiting for the next coat on & on till there all done if the boards are filling yr racks put the early ones out side in sun.
ok we hot coated the ten boards. we need one more thing
a bucket of preety hot water & some soap powder that the litle woman washes the cloths with the course varity is the best.
so we now get the brush squeeze all resin out of brush get about a desert spoon of soap powder rub it in to brush do all this with yr glassing gloves on and in the room with out any uv light now plunge the brush & hands in to the hot water rub brush vigoursly
thrashing it around a fair bit once brush is in water you can take it out side and relax rinse all
soap powder & residue in clean warm water just split the water in two
about 3 litre for initial and 3 litres for final rinse knock excess water out of brush leave in sun to dry with gloves wash hands
go get a cup of tea or a beer job well done
my hot water comes of my roof of the w/shop
remember no catylist or that other dirty stuff required
cheers huie
**
**
Huie - was just gonna say, are you sure you're not confusing this guy with the other newbie poster?
http://www2.swaylocks.com/forums/need-help-0
Then you go all soft, and chime in with a D-I-Y manual.
Yer a good guy, I don't care what they say about you!
thanx no it all!
[quote="$1"] thanx no it all! [/quote]
Thats appreciation for ya! (some guys have been doing this for years and don't know what you just coulda learned in a half minute of careful reading)
Thanks know it all?!?!? Are you kidding?
You’ll go far as a shaper… I can tell already.
Good luck, ha ha.
[quote=“$1”]
thanx no it all![/quote ]
haaa you stupid prick my better judgment told me not to post that
and you just proved it right.
now most on here will realise why i cant be bothered with dumb c##nts like you
now go f y
Hey Huie,
I don’t think your post was a total waste of your time, I’m sure a lot of people lurking got some benefit from your words of wisdom. Thanks for still being on the forum!! Cheers
standishowl,, ( what are you a Warewolf?)
man you just diss'ed one of Austrailia's shaping/glassing guru's
what are you thinking?
Huie
I appriciate all that typing, and the info (thouh, I allready know how)
I guess you could claim a new nick name "Mr. Know it all" dang that sounds familiar
Thank you for the tips, i wasn’t in the wright frame off mind yesterday, other bigger things than glassing on my mind.sorry if i was rude its really not like me, i ask silly questions, or repeat my self because i seek the know how and experiance of the likes of you and others in the know.
I have been there. And yes, done that. Nice of you to man up and apologize. Hope we hear and see more from you in the days (and waves!) to come.
ૐ
Like Otis said, if you’re properly set up, you should have little problem CAREFULLY moving a still-wet UV cure laminated board, especially with some cat added. Moving a few steps from one rack to another, a sqeegeed tight lam ain’t going anywhere as long as you don’t bang into a wall or something
Think your wright, now looking back at the laminating did, used way to much resin and the laps were to wet. Its all a steep learing curve. Made a bit of a mess of the hot coat to, didn’t get the wax in the lam resin ratio right and also not enough catalyst to. Is it possible to reaply hot coat over the bodge one i did? should i sand this coat first before reaplying a fresh hot coat?.
if the messed up hot coat is hard and sand able then i would sand down the hole thing and re hot coat
if the hot coat is all tacky then just add another hot coat with the proper amounts of surfacing agent so you can at least get it to a sand able stage