UV Poly Sanding for Laminating?

General Discussion
1

I'm an epoxy guy so I'm a bit lost.  I just did my 2 first ever uv poly laminations. 

I'm used to doing a quick prep sand of the final deck lap on the bottom before I baste on my normal epoxy laminations.  Not a full on grind session but just enough to feather the edge and take down any high spots. 

When using the uv poly laminating resin the laps are too gummy to sand.  I really couldn't even sand a thing as a 60 grit pad would gum up.  The final product was fine though, no sand throughs and no weave. 

My question though is there any reason to not use the uv poly sanding resin for the whole job or for just the deck lamination?  Is that a no no?  Do you need the extra stickiness of the laminating resin to make the system work properly?  I was surprised at how epoxy like the resin was. It would make things easier if I just bought and used the sanding resin for the whole job.

It is actually pretty ironic.  I have to jam with the KK epoxy and I can cruise with the uv poly. 

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Thanks Huie.

how are you doing it naturaly or other

Bottom lam first, free laps.  Grind edge, lam top, quick prep sand of deck lap on the bottom, baste lap, sanding coat, then sand.  No gloss just clear spray.

no way

O.K. thats all I needed to hear.  Just thought I'd ask.  Just need to flatten those deck laps as much as possible before I expose it to the sun.  I got used to really flattening out those laps with the squegee as the resin started to kick and stick to the blank with the epoxy.  The uv is too fast to do that. 

Any trick to get that extra bit of resin out of that final lap?

 

4

**ok dmp. **

   this is what i did to keep it all as simple as you can get it

i put a glassing stand right next to the roller door in my w/shop

close door

glass board as nrml push laps tight

give it a final check put al gear out of the impending uv

**open door pickboard up walk it into sunlight **

aim the glassed area     bottom or top   (try not to let the laps see to much)

**
**

around 40- 60    sec  dont cook it

**when i walk the board out i grab a frezzer bag for each hand  ( keeps everything clean)
**

touch the  deck or bottom should be flippable

take board back in side flip,   now hears the part   you will like

the laps will still be wet so you can work on them to your hearts content  (close the door of course)

once yr happy take board out in sun face laps to sun 40 - 60 sec should be good to go

**all this should take not much more than a nrml catylist glass job
**

  one big plus yr ready to go                            **   cheers huie **

5

bump!

any tricks for cutflaps Huie

6

    Howzit DMP, So you have lammed both sides and want to take down the edge on the bottom rom the deck lam. OK I use to keep my used 80 grit for that or use a razor blade to scrape the edge off,eiither way will work. For hot coats use catalyst to kick them off then put in sun to quick cure. Wish I as still there, I would drop by the station for a detailed talk. Tell Gavin and Dane Aloha from Wildog. Aloha,Kokua

7

Thanks Huie for sharing your knowledge!  I have a board to do in a few days and I'll get the bags ready.  I can see the bags might be more for the resin on your gloves then the board.

The whole uv resin thing is brilliant. 

8

Mahalo!  I read your tip on another thread and actually had one of the sanding coats stay tacky in a few spots.  So next ones are going to get catalyst in the sanding coats.

I'll tell the boys you said howzit.

Also go figure I finally get around to using poly and you move to the mainland?

9

 

    haaa’’ yr a cunning pr##k

 if you do a cutlap same as above but you can only flash it enough till it has that nice feel to it to make the cut     when cut just expose it again 60 seconds   put it up in rack  do next one     and on and on haa’’

 

 

  ** ok listen up heres one for the enviroment & your health’'**

hot coats  lets say we have 10 boards to do

**what we need is resin uv of course waxed
**

 a 4’’ brush the std white bristle  that we all seem to use’

nothing else ( yes thats right no acetone no mekp)

 **here we go   oh one more thing sunshine  **

know from the well placed stand that i mentiond above

we get enough resin out to do the job i keep this in the other room so the uv dont f##k with me

brush out the resin as per nrml then put brush and excess resin back in room

wait a moment or two to let the wax rise in the hot coat run your finger around rail

with frezer bags on hands pick board up go flash it as above but this time aim the rails on both sides as well a minute or so will see it ready to do other side repeat  then wrack board & move on to next remember the brush can just sit in the excess resin waiting for the next coat on & on till there all done  if the boards are filling yr racks put the early ones  out side in sun.

ok we hot coated the ten boards.     we need one more thing

 a bucket of preety hot water &  some  soap powder that the litle woman washes the cloths with the course varity is the best.

 so we now get the brush squeeze all resin  out of brush  get about a desert spoon of soap powder rub it in to brush  do all this with yr glassing gloves on and in the room with out any uv light  now plunge  the brush & hands in to the hot water rub brush vigoursly

thrashing it around a fair bit once brush is in water you can take it out side and relax rinse all

** soap powder & residue  in clean warm water just split the water in two**

about 3 litre for initial and 3 litres for final rinse   knock excess water out of brush leave in sun to dry with gloves wash hands

 go get a cup of tea  or a beer job well done

my hot water comes of my roof of the w/shop

**                                                                           remember no catylist or that other dirty stuff required **

 

 

**                       cheers huie               
**

 

10

     Howzit DMP, Yeah sorry about that and after 40 tears on Kauai it wasn't an easy decision to move but it had a lot to do with family and my caretaking job disappearing. At least I am living in my own home and collecting my SS plus a litle extra which makes for a nice living. Actually looking into a RV and do some traveling.Don't know if they told you but I did boards for Dane and ding repair for Gavin. Miss see you guys at FoodLand. Aloha,Kokua

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the final ingrediant[img_assist|nid=1054054|title=surfblanks|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]

12

Huie, I gotta say, that’s the most informative I’ve seen you yet. And to the point with all straight talk. THANKS HEAPS!!! This will spur me to try UV more in the future. Also thanks for the tip on what is considered “GOOD” foam.

ps. I’m not competition. Just some D#$K who does it for the enjoyment. I’ll even bookmark this one!

13

yep and dont frget git rid of the nastys      ( mekp & acetone)

 

              if you have any prblm yell out

 

                            ** cheers huie**

14

Huie, That’s the best thing about this whole issue. It’s what got me to try using epoxy. Thanks for the help. Looking forward to the UV process.

15

[quote=“$1”]

 

 

 

  I was surprised at how epoxy like the resin was. It would make things easier if I just bought and used the sanding resin for the whole job.

 

 

  **dmp      not to worry    just get u v laminating   and add wax & styrene to do your hotcoats  **

when you do the hot coat wait a moment or two for the wax to rise  then flash it

its all good[img_assist|nid=1054127|title=pink|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]

**
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** i guess i am allowed to show you this now  haaa’’
**

the best foam i have seen ** pink magic**

 

 

   and contrary to what some people think i am happy to answer any question about any part of surfboard construction

**by private message
**