I’ve been thinking about a cheap way to rig some lights up for UV resin curing. Has anyone thought about something like this? Pros/cons? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1744963012
It looks like it just might work. Can you contact the seller and get specifics on light wave frequency? I know there are a couple of guys around here that have that stuff nailed. The link to suncure stuff shows tanning bulbs used in their curing chamber. http://www.suncure.com/UVC2000usersguide.htm
It looks like it just might work. Can you contact the seller and get > specifics on light wave frequency? I know there are a couple of guys > around here that have that stuff nailed. The link to suncure stuff shows > tanning bulbs used in their curing chamber. I don’t glass my boards with u.v. resin at this point but am really interested in using it for ding repair and touch ups.Is there any type u.v. light that is kinda like a flashlight or hand lamp that could be used to quick cure a small repair?Thanks.
I don’t glass my boards with u.v. resin at this point but am really > interested in using it for ding repair and touch ups.Is there any type > u.v. light that is kinda like a flashlight or hand lamp that could be used > to quick cure a small repair?Thanks. There are smaller units for the face alone that go for cheaper than the one I’m linking to…There are also small hand held uv light inspection devices that are available from places like Grainger and Mcmaster-Carr. A friend uses one of these, they work great and are lantern flashlight sized. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1745205767
There are smaller units for the face alone that go for cheaper than the > one I’m linking to…There are also small hand held uv light inspection > devices that are available from places like Grainger and Mcmaster-Carr. A > friend uses one of these, they work great and are lantern flashlight > sized. Hopefully this will help also… http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/2081.html
Thank a lot for the input.I am still confused as to what I might need,some of the prices were up there and some not.I would like to use it for say a 10x10 area and kick it off in say maybe one minute.Nothing real critical, just touch up and ding repair type stuff.We might be on to something here,maybe some of the other Sway Bros will give us some info.This is pretty interesting.
Suncure kicks in 5 minutes in full sunlight. You won’t find another UV source stronger than the sun. Artificial cures will range from 5 minutes upward. For best curing efficiency, you want tanning, or blacklight UV. But Suncure will kick less efficiently in wavelengths close to tanning lights. I’ve cured Suncure in 20 minutes using cool white flourescent tubes, mounted less than a foot from the resin surface. Handheld is pretty tricky. From my experience with street lights, I can recommend bare (not color corrected) Mercury Vapor, with no interveining glass. Look for the clear bulbs. A 175W guard light would provide sufficient UV for reasonably quick portable cures. The guard light should cost less than $30 U.S. I would cover the inside of the clear plastic chimney with aluminum foil. A couple of 400W MV street lights would cook a whole board in short order. Most street lights cast an oval light pattern. Try putting a 175W guard light on an extension cord and see how you like it. MV emits just over half as much light per watt as flourescent tubes. But MV costs less to buy, and the fixtures are more compact. Good luck, Noodle
Suncure kicks in 5 minutes in full sunlight. You won’t find another UV > source stronger than the sun. Artificial cures will range from 5 minutes > upward.>>> For best curing efficiency, you want tanning, or blacklight UV. But > Suncure will kick less efficiently in wavelengths close to tanning lights. > I’ve cured Suncure in 20 minutes using cool white flourescent tubes, > mounted less than a foot from the resin surface.>>> Handheld is pretty tricky. From my experience with street lights, I can > recommend bare (not color corrected) Mercury Vapor, with no interveining > glass. Look for the clear bulbs. A 175W guard light would provide > sufficient UV for reasonably quick portable cures. The guard light should > cost less than $30 U.S. I would cover the inside of the clear plastic > chimney with aluminum foil.>>> A couple of 400W MV street lights would cook a whole board in short order. > Most street lights cast an oval light pattern. Try putting a 175W guard > light on an extension cord and see how you like it.>>> MV emits just over half as much light per watt as flourescent tubes. But > MV costs less to buy, and the fixtures are more compact.>>> Good luck, Noodle Thanks Noodle,That post took a lot of thought and I for one thank you.I am still confused about the u.v. thing but it will all work out in the end.At least you didn’t send me to the archives.Long live Swaylocks and keep the talk going Bros.
RB- Here is a good basic UVA-UVB primer: http://www.uvp.com/html/uvspectrum.html and another you can relate to, automotive finish applications. http://www.sabreen.com/uv_curable_coatings.html Noodle is right on with the Mercury Vapor lighting. I tested an old outdoor security light I had and is does emit a huge pattern of usable UV-cure. UV system cures from the inside out and the light must be able to penetrate and bath the particles with light. Tints will work but opaques will not, finbox/plugs no good either. For a quick ding repair light I use “Black Light” bulbs, not perfect source of light but good enough for dings, lam patches etc. These are not bead curtain and lava light type black light lamps, what I use are a bulb that is installed in many types of bug attractant type fixtures. Insects are attracted to these same types of wavelengths. Mine is a double tube 24" flourescent fixture with 2 flourescent “BL” tubes. Start looking at a True-Value hardware or lighting supply. Works like a champ for ding repair. One caution on this stuff, protect your eyes! these wavelengths of light are muy malo for your eyes. Hey! now go read the archives. Tom Sterne
Tom, Thanks for mentioning the UV hazzards to the eyes. I have been using a UV sterilizing lamp that I borrowed from the lab. Its only 8 inches long and works like a charm for curing. One quick pass over all surfaces and I am done. Only problem is the UV output (200-400 nm) is huge and it will literally burn my skin in less than 3-4 minutes so I have to wear alot of protective clothing and shades to work with these. Anyone out there using these UV bulbs should know that cataracts are no joke! Don’t risk your vision…keep the eyes protected when using high watt UV! ToddO
Another hazard that should be mentioned is the use of bulbs above 350 NM, some of these used for water purification, germicidal etc. can also cause lungburn from the ozone generated…good for masking skunky odors, bad for breathing… Thanks for the good info…>>> Thanks for mentioning the UV hazzards to the eyes. I have been using a UV > sterilizing lamp that I borrowed from the lab. Its only 8 inches long and > works like a charm for curing. One quick pass over all surfaces and I am > done. Only problem is the UV output (200-400 nm) is huge and it will > literally burn my skin in less than 3-4 minutes so I have to wear alot of > protective clothing and shades to work with these. Anyone out there using > these UV bulbs should know that cataracts are no joke! Don’t risk your > vision…keep the eyes protected when using high watt UV!>>> ToddO http://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/108/html/2081.html