Hey all just finished this wake surf. I added some dumb features like two channels and some weird release points on the back.
Do the release points in the outline actually do anything?
“Woke” or Wake?
It’s for towing behind a boat on an inland lake for one of my friends. Was fun to work on. Basic assumption was that given low speeds involved and lack of needing to paddle any shape wide enough should work more or less the same.
But one interesting thing came up.
I tried to make it a uniform orange throughout by mixing a batch of resin and color. I split the resin into two buckets and glassed the bottom and deck patch. Then I clear resin coated the second layer of top glass.
For some reason I can still see the overlap of the deck patch onto the rail and before the tape.
Is the solution to
A) cut off the sliver of overlapped deckpatch over rail before it cures fully
B) next time tape with mm precision using skills i dont have so that there is no rail overlap at all
C) something else smarter?
I’ve got no experience in the wake surf world, so can’t comment on shape. As far as the color work, it looks like you cut your color lap into the foam. so when you glassed your deck patch, the excess resin pooled in the groove created by your razor blade. Thats where the darker color is coming from. Getting an invisible color transition is extremely difficult. Make sure when cutting your laps, you keep the blade parallel to the foam, not straight up and down. Look for videos of the “zipper cut” on youtube.
I can’t tell for sure what you did. Ryan could be right. If you are saying that you can cut that off; I would if I could. Anytime you double a tinted cloth, it will show. I use one layer with a cutlap for both sides. Usually 6 oz. I add my pigment and then split the quantity in two equal portions as you did. I add my deck patch later. I don’t do it at the same time as my tinted deck. The deck patch of course will be darker and the line across the board will be visible. I cut the patch at the rail with a razor blade. A CLEAR deck patch or a full second layer will not show.
I don’t think it’s that I etched foam. I zipper cut it since that’s my favorite part of the process.
What I think happened was that for the deck patch I ended up overlapping the lap from the bottom by about 2mm everywhere because my zipper cut wasn’t entirely even (some parts slightly below tape line with some parts right on the tape line)
Mcding are you saying that you wrap the bottom partially up the rail and the deck patch to that point (meaning your cut lap isn’t actually on the deck for the bottom wrap?. I was thinking about doing something like that next time so that the “seam” isn’t just smack dab on the deck.
Question 2
I’m gonna install future’s post glass with the install kit. Most stuff I’ve read says I should do this post hot coat and then throw down some football patches over the boxes. Is this correct more or less?
I do equal layers top and bottom. Bottom first cut lap at 1 1/2" or 2". I cut and press down the edge of the cut lap onto the foam. Then I turn around and do the deck the same. Cut lap onto the bottom. I don’t do many “deck patches”, but instead opt to cover the whole deck with a clear layer of 4 or 6 ox. I let the clear hang just past the rail apex. When I cut, I let it gel and the just free lap the cut along the rail apex. The clear doesn’t show. If you want a tinted deck patch; put it on after your initial tinted lamination. You can tape it off and cut along the tape. I tape the rail at the apex/mid way. No lap.
I do my post install of Futures after lamination before the hot coat. Otherwise you have to sand the fin box area. After hot coat is extra work.