I will not be making this board (planning on a paddle board this fall)
I have a 9-6 single fin Frierson tank, and an infinity cluster. I am 230 lbs, and an average surfer. I am a down the line guyu, love to trim and play, but the Infinity has opened up a new world of drops and turns for me.
I am thinking about a THICK shorter board, Kind of like an infinity secret weapon, but with a more drawn in nose. I want a board for shorebreak, and faster steeper waves.
I am lucky to surf ten times a year, OBX, VA MD and DE. I have the crumbly small days covered with my current boards. I travel to CR aevry so often, and want to also take it along on the scary days.
Any thoughts here? The Mcoy Nugget talk sounds fun, but probably not the best choice for me.
Any thoughts/advice here? I would want it set up as a thruster, with the option to go single fin. (not unlike the cluster on my infinity)
There is a few things to consider here. Just how short is short for you? Thickness wont solve all your problems, so if you consider your skill “average” on a 9’6" - dropping to a 5’10" board and just thickening it up probably wont work.
Also, are you planning on getting this board custom shaped for you, or what?
A person of your weight is probably going to have a tough time getting up on the smaller boards. For example, I am tipping the scales at around 180, and I have a touch time getting on anything under 6’0" - especially if its a potato chip. I would consider myself a very good surfer - depending on what you think very good is. But I’ve surfed all over, and have been surfing since before I could walk, and still have trouble getting up on smaller boards. That’s not a problem necessarily though, since I feel that the “small” boards I ride, I can do just as well as others on smaller boards.
It’s all relative I suppose. There are a ton of factors to deal with when moving down - and, of course, this is MUCH more complicated than it has to be. But that’s what makes this forum fun.
I would suggest dropping to a 7’0"ish funshape. That’s what a friend of mine did after riding a longboard and getting the hang of it. He went to a 7’2", that was pretty thick straight through nose and tail. 3"ish.
Anyway, bottom line. If you need some help in deciding, let’s go over every factor in play here and see if we cant find the perfect board for you. I, as well as most of the people here, would love to help you out
Bryan, Thanks for taking the time here.
Short to me would be 7-6 at the smallest. I was actually thinking 8. I know lots of folks will roll their eyes, just hope they don’t freeze that way.
I intend to have the board made, but I want to participate in the process. Even if it makes a lesser board, I just like to noodle over this stuff.
Whan I say Average, I mean I can make some drops, but miss a few as well. I am farly stong swimmer/paddler, but the little guys tend to paddle circles around me. No airs or radical cutbacks in my quiver. I can work up and down the face of the wave fairly well.
I have been told a fat swallow tail would be a good starting point. I had a walden with so much rocker it kinda plowed, hoping to avoid that.
I don’t really want a funboard, but I have a suspicion that is what I am describing here.
Any thoughts would be appreciated. Does this help Bryan?
230# – average surfer – surf about 10 times a year.
Real steep take offs in a shore break are going to be difficult to say the least. You’re gonna need enough floatation to get some paddle speed, a fair amount of nose rocker so the thing doesn’t want to pearl on you, A full tail to get you into the waves early and enough width to give you some stability a have a fairly versatile board.
Something aroun 8’0"x13.5"x22.0x15.0"x3.125" would be a good place to start. Pick a top local shaper and talk things over with him. Boards this length tend to be tracky with a squash tail so a full rounded pin or a round tail would be my choice.
I totally see where you are coming from Chris. You’re wanting something with a bit of permance that will not limit you in the ways a funboard does, but at the same time you wont have to paddle like there is a shark behind you just to catch a wave.
You’re definately going to want to avoid those high HIGH rocker boards. Fat swallow tail is an interesting idea. I think a single fin Egg would be fun for you - but that’s probably because I’ve been on the whole “egg kick” for awhile now.
You have to realize that the funboard description is VERY vague and undetailed - just like saying “longboard.” Your opinion of a funboard doesnt exactly cover all aspects, as does anyone else’s.
I would suggest an egg. Or maybe a larger Hybrid if you think you can handle it. The biggest fear I would have, if I were in your position, is designing a board and having it built, then finding that the board wont catch well enough for you. You can have the best board in the world made for you, but it means nothing if stall out at the top of every wave you try for.
I would suggest an egg, as they are super fun and turn really well - and if beginners can take off easy on them, someone who is “average” might just find that little ripper inside of them with this board. What exactly are YOU wanting to get out of the board? There are literally thousands of designs that can work for you. Let’s fine tune it a bit.
Hi Chris - I wouldn’t think twice about a board exactly like the Secret Weapon. Around 4" (I can see the eyes rolling now) is a perfectly reasonable thickness for a big guy (230 lbs) going shorter. I would think the extra cost for the thicker model would be well worth it. The Secret Weapon model I saw recently had a very functional and versatile fin set up as well - your basic 2+1 with removable side bites and a long box. With a couple of center fins, you could handle a wide range of surf conditions. Steve Boehne has tons of experience and I’m sure could tailor a custom to your specs.
Sent you a PM with some ideas
Thanks all for the input, and Jimi, i appreciate the help. I remember nolte boards form my nags head days, (early 90’s) but I didn’t realize he had a ship on obx. I was a new sun guy back then.
I think the beest bet is to sit down with a shaper and talk in through. I have to say I am biased towards guys who embrace the “big guys should surf too” attitude. Nolte, Infinity seem to fit that description, and will likely get the nod.