Never having the opportunity to make my own boards. Over the years I have had many shapes and lengths to ride including ( paipo’s, kneeboards, the often critisized wave ski, and the not so “pure” handboard, mat soon to be included!). My thoughts are those around my personal “illusion” of a classic ride. The kind of ride that when I fall asleep at night, or am getting a little stressed out, a wave that appears in my mind behind closed eyes. The sunlight, shape of the wave down the line, speed , great turns off the top, or crusing. These self provoked mind images appear to be “board-less”. My question to fellow posters …was it the shape, or the wave, or the moment in time? The you remember the most?? regards Peter Waitkun
My thoughts are those around my personal > “illusion” of a classic ride. The sunlight, shape of the wave down the > line, speed , great turns off the top, or crusing. These self provoked > mind images appear to be “board-less”.>>> My question to fellow posters …was it the shape, or the wave, or the > moment in time? The you remember the most?? It’s about the motion, the flight. What kind of equipment is irrelevant beyond how well it gets you to that space in reality…and that part starts with getting out of where you live, to the beach, out into the water, and into waves. Nels
Peter…It has been my experience that when I have a well crafted board, I then have the LUXURY to (almost) FORGET about what’s underfoot…and I can go where I need to be. That’s the beauty of a great board…it doesn’t interfere…it is ambient! (You NOTICE a dog of a board much easier than a “stradivarius”…a good stick frees you up so that it is just an extension of you!). T. (p.s. we ARE diminished without our beautiful waves!)
Great topic, hadn’t thought about it much. I agree with Tom in that if whatever I’m riding (standup or kneeboard) is responsive to the point that I don’t have to think about what I need to do for the next move then I find myself mentally extending beyond my physical self. Kinda of a out-of-body experience if that makes any sense. Taking in the whole moment. One of the things I like about kneeboarding is this immense sense of freedom since the board responses almost like a reflex reaction with balance and body position being less of a concern than say timing and connecting with the power of the wave. P.S- This is such a cool website!! Knowledgable, friendly folks with the “Aloha” spirit. Reminds me of “Jay”
Great topic, hadn’t thought about it much. I agree with Tom in that if > whatever I’m riding (standup or kneeboard) is responsive to the point that > I don’t have to think about what I need to do for the next move then I > find myself mentally extending beyond my physical self. Kinda of a > out-of-body experience if that makes any sense. Taking in the whole > moment. One of the things I like about kneeboarding is this immense sense > of freedom since the board responses almost like a reflex reaction with > balance and body position being less of a concern than say timing and > connecting with the power of the wave. P.S- This is such a cool website!! > Knowledgable, friendly folks with the “Aloha” spirit. Reminds me > of “Jay” “…For the first time since I switched over to mat riding, I enjoyed the combination of plentiful long rides, a light and easy-going crowd, and enough juice to make the mat fly. I’ve finally started to feel like I used to on a kneeboard, where I don’t have to think about riding at all, but rather I just do it. The mat kind of disappeared and the equation reduced down to just me and the wave. A couple of times, as I was hurtling along with the wind whipping my face and the crowd disappearing into the distance behind me, I had to contend with this mad spell of giggling that would just well up inside.” (From an email written by Dirk Brandts, to Kenny Hughes and Dale Solomonson, Feb. 12, 2002)
the wave. i can’t think of anything else to say. words can not express…
My question to fellow posters …was it the shape, or the wave, or the moment > in time? The you remember the most?? The most memorable thing for me is a combination of all three factors. The shape allows me to experience the magic of the wave. Without the wave, the shape would be useless. The moment in time gives me something to compare to the past and remember for the future. The beauty of those three things, in harmony, is what the dream’s all about. Yeah, the surfmat is a good place to start looking for answers to your questions.
Never having the opportunity to make my own boards. Over the years I have > had many shapes and lengths to ride including ( paipo’s, kneeboards, the > often critisized wave ski, and the not so “pure” handboard, > mat soon to be included!). My thoughts are those around my personal > “illusion” of a classic ride. The kind of ride that when I fall > asleep at night, or am getting a little stressed out, a wave that appears > in my mind behind closed eyes. The sunlight, shape of the wave down the > line, speed , great turns off the top, or crusing. These self provoked > mind images appear to be “board-less”.>>> My question to fellow posters …was it the shape, or the wave, or the > moment in time? The you remember the most??>>> regards Peter Waitkun It was the Fish!
For me, it is several waves but essentially the same moment on each. None of them were that big. The boards weren’t that much of a factor. It was more a combination of wave judgement, timing, positioning and sheer dumb luck. The moment(s) were the seconds before making the 3 deepest tubes of my life. Those moments of uncertainty - was I getting gobbled up by white water, was I going to get dragged up and over or was I going to pull through? Different spots, different boards (none of them “magic” - any board might have worked) but the same memorable feeling that can only be relived by doing it again.
Appendix to my above comment…I would choose consistent good waves (better yet, consistantly good DIFFERENT waves{in different PLACES}) over the craft on which they are surfed…any day! (if need be, I would surf them on a garbage can cover and be satisfied!)…but a good board is definitely preferred.
My thoughts are those around my personal>>> It’s about the motion, the flight.>>> What kind of equipment is irrelevant beyond how well it gets you to that > space in reality…and that part starts with getting out of where you > live, to the beach, out into the water, and into waves.>>> Nels I see it as moments frozen in time, not so much a majic board, there have been many majic boards. But sort of a quantum leap that remains in those brain cells forever. My first real hang ten at Ala Mo’, a free fall,side slip, tube ride on the take off at Barber’s Point ouside reef. A perfect 20 score in a contest, my first US Championship win, my loss in the first round. I have not one that I would concider my finest moment, but a collage that I hope will pass before my eyes at that last breath.
It’s all Soulll.Herb
My question to fellow posters …was it the shape, or the wave, or the > moment in time? The you remember the most??>>> regards Peter Waitkun PW, Great question. Although I cannot be as eloquent as Dale or Glen I will give you my two bits: I find that for myself it is a combination of the wave, the board, the texture of the water, and the light dancing through the backlit greenroom that is full of fish flitting through the walls… Aw Hell, I’m goin surfin’! Dawn patrol anyone??? Magoo
it’s THAT feeeling. everybody knows it. something that cannot be expressed in words or even images, yet everyone knows what it is. and once you’ve got it you know it, and it never goes away. like bill hamilton says “its that feeling of flight where everything else is secondary, you, your board, everything. and you get to a point where you’re really just moving on terrain with your mind…” he’s got a great point there. every single time im locked in, trimmed out and flying, i get that same feeling where everything is secondary and the world is almost in slow motion, no cares, no worries, leave everything behind, truly live for the moment. like an earlier poster said “its like an out of body experience” i can totally relate. that’s exactly what it is and its the best thing on earth. -steve PS: tyler hatzikian probably has the best explanation for it all in an issue of lonboard magazine. the article is called something like “when its bleeding into you”. anyway there’s an australian kid in a barrel riding a mctavish on the cover of the issue, if i can find the mag ill post the article. if you know what im talking about, defintely check it out, or read it again.