First of all thank you for having this website and sharing your knowledge. Up front I’m not a shaper and am very new to surfing (about 1 year), but I’m absolutely addicted to it. You guys have excellent info which has, among other things, helped me do some previous ding repairs.
I have searched a bit on the topic of fixing a waterlogged board (PU foam I believe), but I just wanted to confirm a few things since the repair area is bigger than any I’ve worked on before, and this board is half of my quiver.
I discovered a crack in the deck of my 6’9" funboard, basically right on the left edge of the stringer. The glass in that area was somewhat concave in relation to the crowned/convex curvature of the deck of the board, but I didn’t realize until about a week ago that it had actually cracked. When I scraped the wax off, a large portion of the concave glass had yellowing underneath, so I knew that was bad news.
So far I have:
-cut away most of the glass located over the wet foam (see picture; brown marks are due to rusty boxcutter blade). I am realizing that perhaps I should have just drilled holes in order to dry the board out (per other posts regarding drying a waterlogged board). However, the glass there was concave, so I’d like to take the opportunity to restore the board’s normal deck curvature to this damaged area, either by cutting out the bad foam and using a new block, or by letting the foam dry, and then putting some filler on top before reglassing.
-sprayed the exposed foam with freshwater from a hose (per advice that had been given about flushing salty foam with freshwater)…is this the correct way of flushing?
-weighed the board: about 10.0 lb right now
Next steps for drying:
-possibly using the vacuum technique that was posted (plastic bag taped around damage periphery, vacuum hose, mason jar setup)?
-just let it dry (not in the sun) for several days or weeks. Every other day, should I spray with flush with freshwater again to really make sure the salt gets out?
-sounds stupid, but would putting rice on the wet foam be adviseable? if not I can wait it out.
-Will the stringer dry out OK too?
After drying:
-prep sand around repair area
-put down a layer of resin/filler (this would be so I can restore the normal deck crowning to the damaged area)
-sand smooth to match deck curvature
-3 or 4 layers of glass?? with the successive layers being larger than the previous
-hot coat
-sand
As I said, this is much bigger than any other ding repair I’ve done (previous would be size of a fist). So are there any other measures I should take to make sure this deck repair is robust? Are there any big flaws in my gameplan?
Many thanks again.