So I’m looking to understand better about a board that will catch waves early and still handle late drops - real late steep drops - not get hung up in the lip, head high dumpy waves, a board with real get up and go that will handle top turns to make the drop. I’ve tried many different boards and haven’t found the magic yet. Bu I see guys out there pulling it off on low volume boards with just one or two strokes in. Sometimes I think narrower low volume boards are more willing to slide in. Any thoughts ?
I think catching waves early and making really late step drops require diametrically opposed design factors. To get in early requires length and low rocker. Steep drops require more rocker and less length.
You really have to choose your priority. It’s kind of like the mythic board that “catches waves like a longboard but turns like a shortboard.” One way or another you make a compromise.
I surf a spot that is mostly longboards and I ride a totally compromised board. It neither catches waves like a longboard nor turns like a short board. But it turns way better than a longboard and catches waves way better than a shortboard.
7’-6" x 21" x 2-3/4"
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Yes - I’m in the same camp now - riding a 7’4"x20x2 3/4 - what rocker are you using /
I’m in Southern California and the wave this board is intended for is usually pretty slopey. So I use a “relaxed rocker.” I think this board had just under 5" nose and just over 2" tail. Vee in tail with very mild inset double concaves. Twinzer fin set up.