My friend scored an epic ride on Tuesday that is getting some attention. Surfline has its “Wave Of The Winter” contest but its all dreamy tropical goodness. Here folks is the wave of the actual winter. Cold Gnarly Blustery and dangerous. Wind chill in the single digits…water about 40*F.
nice wave!!
If that was me, I’m not sure what I’d be thinking.
Either stoked out of my mind, and want another.
Or scared to death at my close call, and hang up my wetsuit and never go near the ocean again.
That was epic.
That is about as hairy chested as a wave can get ! He was a long time in ‘‘the echo chamber.’’ Outstanding.
When I was younger (circa mid-80s), I would chase those NJ winter swells riding a 6’4" ‘CANYON’ quad made by none other than Rusty Palphebetsoup while wearing one of those 1st generation Aleeda 5/3mm with attached hood which was a ridiculous 1.5mm thin; ice cream headaches just looking at the surf. Then i moved to Silicon Valley for a few years before returning to the east coast.
Now I have significantly better wetsuits (Patagonia 5.5/4/5mm with attached hood) and ride more foam and keep most of my winter surfing confined to weekends. Thank-goodness that Stella swell was on a Tuesday
EDIT: and that video is intense. But I saw another video of that wave from a slightly different angle and pulled back a bit and at real speed; it was even more intense, IMO. I’ll see if I can find that.
Rob has always sought out the heaviest waves he could find. I give his crew a lot of credit. They really work hard to surf and film in the heaviest conditions the NorthEast can produce. They will drive all night to chase a swell to NewEngland or Hatteras and anywhere in between. Even as groms him and his brother were charging the biggest waves they could find. At 15 or 16 his younger brother rode the biggest wave I’ve ever seen ridden in our home town. Rob has also been charging Pipeline the past few winters.
so pitted
Amazing! You friend can surf.
Thanks for sharing
Wheee! Nice ride.
Get’s my vote. You Joizy boys got some balls. It’s cold where I call home (Oregon). But nothing like that. Looked like a close out for a few frames.