lately ive been thinking about wave period (short, medium, long) and which type of board i should be taking out.
Lets say its 8 foot medium period ground swell. wave starts feeling the bottom sooner, gaining its shape but not breaking for a while. for waves like this i would choose something with paddle power. semigun/fish with volume and medium rocker. Sunday in Long Beach Ny was such a day where i didnt choose the correct board for the waves. a board that can get moving is going to have an easier time catching it without having to sit inside closer to where the wave is breaking.
Now with windswell at the same size its a short period swell. the wave comes up quickly forcing you to take off and be in exactly the right point to make the wave. for a wave like this high rocker boards are my choice.
i want to know what everyones thoughts are on this. i know there are different boards for different types of waves (beach break, point break, reef etc) but do you think there are different boards for different wave periods. say a different board for a 6,12, 20 second period?
thanks guys.