I got a lovelly new steamer a month or 2 back. its great and is one of the pull over/chest zips. it has no warrenty as I only paid 20 - 30% of what it retails for.
now there is a reoccuring little hole in the back where one of the panels joins up. i’ve tried stitching it a few times and no really permanet solution there.
so would that little repair stuff in a tube work or a hot glue gun???
any info greatly apreciated. and a website with the stuff on it would be great.
also if any aussies know of wetsuit repair glue give us a yell
The stuff they sell in squeeze tubes is shit. The only thing worth using is neoprene cement. The same damn thing they use to build wetsuits.
Once, I walked into a local (so-called) surf shop, and asked for wetsuit glue. The dimwit behind the counter offered up that bogus crap in a tube. It’s really nothing more than silicone caulk, re-packaged. I said I didn’t want it, and was looking for actual wetsuit glue that comes in a can, with a brush in the cap. The “dude” said: " They don’t make that stuff any more". So, I asked him how the hell they built all the wetsuits displayed in back???
Anyway, wetsuit glue (the real deal) is widely available from a variety of sources. O’Neill used to sell it under the name “Black Gold”.
The stuff I have is called “Seal Cement”. I got from a place called Murray’s Marine Supply.
Your best bet is to check local diver’s supply retailers. Accept NO substitutes, and follow the directions. It comes in either black, or a clear/gold color. Makes no difference, they both work.
If you get the black cement it should be perfect. If not, there is another option, which i regularly use. It´s called seam grip, comes in little tubes and is usually available in outdoor-gear-shops. The stuff is pu-based, and, other than most cements, is liquid enough to soak the seams you stiched, before it hardens. So if you are repairing anything concerning fabrik or seams it´s probaby the best stuff you can get. For a smooth surface of the repair, just put on clear tape after the application. Two hours later you can peel it off to let everything dry out completely (it takes half a day until it is stress resistant)
The only thing in disadvantage against black cement is the look of the repair on open surface. As i don´t care about the look to much, and was repairing large holes on the knee-pads last time, my neighbour watched me when i was checking the result, and asked why i had so disgoustingly spat on my neosuit. But that would be no issue on seams next to zippers i guess. Anyway the stuff is the strongest and most durable i know. It stays flexible for years and thus prevents the usual little ripps next to old repairs.
Tony is, as usual, right. I have faked it with contact cement, but the real stuff works best. I will also advise reinforcing the area with mebbe a little more Neoprene 2 rubber, sew it on with a zig-zag stitch, set the sewing machine tension kinda loose so it’’ stretch, use #69 or #92 dacron sail thread.
What you got is the zipper, that won’t stretch, and the rubber, that stretches real good. Kinda make a diamond with the additional rubber, to make a section that stretches midway between the two, if ya get my drift.
Tony is, as usual, right. I have faked it with contact cement, but the real stuff works best.
There is a local wetsuit manufacturer here (custom suits) that use contact cement. Very nice suits that last very well. Note that it’s not the contact cement you get in a small ‘toothpaste’ bottle, but the stuff you get in a can.
