What am I doing wrong? (Noseriding)/Board/Possible suggestion?

Okay I have been really trying to hit the noesriding thing with the swell we have had in FL from Irene for the past few weeks, Ive been working on noseriding forever. Only using this board, with not much noticable improvement. Now I can hang ten on a longboard skateboard allllll day long… but this 10 T&C board may not be ideal for noseriding…is it the board, me, or both?.. are there any elements on this board that are working against me?

Im thinking the nose isnt thick enough since every time i get up there regardless of small corrections i end up tanking it… when attempting the noseride i always go single fin and push it far back to the tail as I can…and that the rails may be too hard and/or tail too narrow?.. not sure… could just be ME… whatcha think? my style is pretty laid back, I go for the big bottom turn, or drop kniee turn, depending on if I start knee padding or prone… get maybe a cutback or two in and try for the nose after stalling a bit…

heres some pics of my current board:







This board was given to me by a friend that moved to Hawaii and so it was free … and has lasted years, but as you can see it has been quite beat up (mostly before I got it…) Ive recently started thinking about updating my quiver since Im now nearly 26 and I want to have a good board as i work my ass off and feel I deserve it. So… I shaped a board when I was younger, I have some rudimentary shaping experience (and ghastly glassing experience)… but never shaped a longboard. Recently I have been thinking of designing my own board and thought it would be cool to do a hollow-wooden design. I have the design programs but I need some more help in terms of specs that would be for my ideal board… recommendations and the like. Not building it for me by any means but putting the "50/50 rails and fat/wide nose…etc) into measurement (inches) perspective… Im 150lbs (well really 135, but my goal is 150 so i want to design this for that weight class)…



Any help, advice or critiques would be appreciated… I have already ghosted the forums a bit and read quite a few posts as well as become aquatined with the “search” function

your not showing the tail rail

but my guess is that its got a hard edge

that board can be nose ridden by someone whos good

it may just be that your timeing at the nose is wrong

you need to be up in the curl not on the flats

if you are on the nose hi on the wave it should work but when you accellerate due to the hard tail rail

you will go too far ahead of the wave, thus slowing and "tanking"

round tail rail and a big fin slows things down to stay in the curl

also (inportant) the round rails or 50/50 rails let the water wrap around the tail and hold it down so the nose stays up

your tanking may be the tail releasing.

so maybe try a bigger fin ya think?? like the big L shaped ones (forgot what theyre called)


ps thank you for the reply!!


thin nose not thick. Do not go with a thick nose. Rocker is most important...you want flip in the last foot and a half or so. Round rails make suction, hard edges release. suction is good for noserides. Take out the sidebites and put in a bigger fin with more area to lock you into the wave. I have noseridden(ten over) boards with hard edges behind the fin and pinched/ knifey rails in the 8' range. In the end it is the surfer not the surfboard so keep practicing. good luck

also, about outline, I prefer a narrow nose and wider tail so that I can noseride more parallel to the wave vs more towards shore


This board looks like a high performance shredder but hard to tell without rocker profile.

He’s my thoughts on what makes a good noserider…

Low entry rocker and late tail kick

nose concave

Gentle rolled bottom throughout

50/50 rails throughout 

Hips back

Big thick vertical pivot fin


let me see if I can get you a better pic tomorrow after work that will show the tail/nose rocker and rails… I really appreciate the feedback though! Yeah thats what I was kind of thinking… more high performance shredder like… the nose seems too thin to support a noseride, unless im suuuuuper stalling and run up there for a quick hang 5… but mostly I have been in the high perf style with this board, itll turn on a dime if I get back far enough…which for a 10 ft board (and a 130lb rider) is saying quite a bit…


your advice is continually added to my notes! :slight_smile:


Pretty soon Ill have a picture of what I want in my mind, and can put it on paper (and programs)… then on to the next decision, solid wood, foam, or chambered wood… research time :slight_smile:

Typical T&C Hy-performance longboard.  Didn't go thru all the pictures.  Didn't need to.  I'm assuming it's a 9'0 . Most are.  I've seen hundreds of these boards in the Hawaiian Islands.  If you are a skinny local boy who started surfing when you were two years old you can noseride this board.


let me see if I can get you a better pic tomorrow after work that will show the tail/nose rocker and rails... I really appreciate the feedback though! Yeah thats what I was kind of thinking... more high performance shredder like..... the nose seems too thin to support a noseride, unless im suuuuuper stalling and run up there for a quick hang 5... but mostly I have been in the high perf style with this board, itll turn on a dime if I get back far enough...which for a 10 ft board (and a 130lb rider) is saying quite a bit..


your advice is continually added to my notes! :)


Pretty soon Ill have a picture of what I want in my mind, and can put it on paper (and programs).... then on to the next decision, solid wood, foam, or chambered wood.... research time :)


Thick nose does not help you noseride...in fact I feel the opposite. you are not floating on the nose... you are planing. Thickness doesn't matter once you are planing. a thin nose makes the board more manuverable, which allows you to place yourself in the right spot at the right time for a nose ride. A thick nose will ride 'stiff'. I prefer boards with scooped 'spoon' noses...I can feel the nose rocker flex downward once the tail is locked in, and the flattened nose rocker makes for better noserides.

by the way, I forgot to mention...weight is key too. you want a heavy board that sits in the water. good luck Ian

+1 on the advice given above.

The design features that make a great noseriding board tend to detract from a boards “high-performance” capabilities.   You won’t be doing a lot of carving, drivey turns on a purpose-built noseriding specialty board (due to the belly in the bottom and the soft rails in the tail).  It’ll be all about a slow pivot turn to set up a stroll to the tip.  Flat rocker up front can make late take-offs dicey: better to take off early and at an angle and then do a left-go-right or right-go-left pivot turn (depending on which way the wave is breaking).

These two fins work well on my noserider:





I prefer the first one.

yeah its a 10’0, but im def the kid who started surfing when i was like 22 months old lol…maybe I wil try a new fin and see about that, I really have never messed around with fins on my quiver, call it a budget issue most of the time… but Id say its damn laziness lol …


I appreciate all the advice… so basically if I am going to build a board its going to be something that has a wide nose, soft rails, fat fin with some rake to it, and a lil bit of concave under the nose?..


Ive had my fair share of turns and such, I want to stay pegged on the nose and do friggin 360 cross-steps like I do on my longboard skateboard (I got a 57 inch bomber…)… sitting on it backwards, lol…I guess what I am looking for is to develop the recipe for a board that has a lot of stability on the nose.


I didnt know that the thick nose sorta worked against you? never thought of it like that…



Alllll I can think about is making a grain board now… ive caught a bug i think lol

A wide stable platform with concave.  It doesn't have to be a ten footer.  I make most of mine in the 9'4 --9'6 range.  Hard rail in the tail with a little kick behind the fin box. The shorter length, and tail mods make it an easy board to turn.  All the noseriders from the 60's were well under ten foot.  It's a shorter walk to the tip.

Clean the deck, looks like four or five + years of old boogers on it. Take out those side fins. You set up your nose-ride by 1. Swinging into the face after your bottom turn. Keep your eyes on the wave, pick a spot and weight your back foot to lift the nose and point it at your spot. Smoothly and timely walk to the nose and stick the nose rail into your spot on the face with your feet, use your body’s momentum to carry you through the position transition stabilizing the board while maintaining some speed. You and the wave meet at the nose rail. Lean back, hang the double shaka’s and smile. 2. Angle take-off and scramble to the nose quickly down the line. Stay in the waves power spot.

I’ve heard practice makes perfect but… clean those boogers off at least. Oh, fin all the way back isn’t necessarily the best. You want best position for pivot, just move it up an inch at a time until you find your sweet spot and remember the wave height at the time.

You’re young you say, you don’t need a new fin to nose-ride that board, boogs or not. Get your lazy-ass out there and don’t come home till you can nose-ride both 1 & 2.


Read the first 4 articles on this link, especially Tom Wegner’s: http://noseriding.com/ a big heavy singlefin and waves with pocket may also help. There is an article by Tom Wegner titled “suction vs trim” in which he explains with words and diagrams the physics of a good noseriding surfboard. I can’t seem to find the link to this article on his new website. If anyone has it, I am sure it will help out IanT on his quest to the nose. Don’t get frustrated Ian, it’s a very hard trick but once you really learn it it will become second nature like riding a bicycle. Some tips: get a board designed for noseriding, you are lightweight so that helps a lot and you don’t need a very wide nose, just a heavy 9’6" - 10’ single fin with kick in the tail and soft 50/50 rails. By heavy I mean 20 lbs plus, weight adds stability. Get something you can turn, not a super wide tounge depressor type. Start with stretch 5’s and work up from there. ALWAYS cross step on a longboard, use small steps and try to be light on your feet(think cat) so you don’t move your board while cross stepping. Finally, noseriding is just a function of trim, don’t try to noseride on every part of the wave, just when the wave calls for it.

Dude, you don’t need anything else, seriously. You’re 135#, I’m 183# and I could nose-ride that board with or without the boogers in ankle busters. It isn’t the board. Equipment advice is usually solid around here but you’ve got that board now and at least ankle busters in Florida. No brainer for me.

Might not be the perfect board for nose riding.  But you should be able to get on the tip.  I would say in this case it is more about the Indian and less about the Arrow.

if you want to nose ride with the best of them you will need a real noserider . end of story .





by the way, I like how you used the t-shirt to protect the rail and keep the board from sliding away from the garage door. No, you don’t need a different board to become a great nose rider. Beginning of (true) story. Bruddah.

Learning proper technique, especially where to put your board on the wave, is way more important than the surfboard. If you are low on budget that board will work, hell I can do a stretch 5 on my 6’ keel fish and I am 210 lbs. However if you want to be serious about noseriding and have the cash to spend, a board helps, especially if you are learning but as I said before: technique and practice, practice, practice…

take out the side fins, get a new pivot fin (upright type thing, youve seen em), u dont need much rake cuz u will usually be going fairly slow, pivot fin will help you do those noseride setup turns that are so critical.  once you do that, i think the board will be easier to noseride.  give it a fresh coat of wax, take it out, and work on it.  once you start getting decent on the tip of that board, start looking at a dedicated noserider.  once you hop on you will be suprised at how much easier it is, and i think u will feel like you have made a big jump in the learning curve.  most important part of noseriding is the section.  you cant do it in the flats.  close to the curl, high and tight! watch vids.  heres a good one for small wave technique  http://vimeo.com/27735162

Here is a purpose-built nose-riding board.  Note the design features as suggested in previous posts: single fin, flat rocker, kicked tail, 50-50 rails, nose concave.