Paint was probably still wet. House paint can take a while to dry. What sheen did you use? Flat would be best for next coats to stick to. Gloss would be the worst. Lastly, lightly sand the paint.
Lastly, house paint needs primer to stick well. House paint is also pretty thick. Did you mix it well? Did you thin it?
It was sprayed with a LVLP gun, without thinning. I turned the heat up in the garage during the night to make it sure it got extra dry. Garage was about 80 degrees the following morning. Paint was flat.
Stoked you’re getting into this! I been there and feel your pain. Best way to learn though!!
Wish I had better news about paint… It could be the climate here in Hawaii but I tried Latex house paints and things didn’t go well for me either and things went worse afterwards. I did a few big boards by painting the blank and all of them eventually delaminated and some within a few paddles on hot days. It seems like the resin can’t really get through that latex paint especially if its spackled first which makes an additional barrier for the resin to get to the foam. Once you start to put pressure by standing the bond gets weak. Even when I vented the board the gassing going on when its plugged, the pressure from standing, hitting chop etc wreaks havoc on that very weak bond of paint to EPS. One little failure in that paint bond to foam and the paint skin started to shed. Once it starts, its over. The joys of delamination are upon you.
I’ve used many glassers and the best bet is to allow the resin to grab into the EPS foam by using a thin coat of spackle or you can make an epoxy resin seal which you can even color. See all the threads on sealing EPS. A good strong bond is the only way to glass EPS especially the bigger boards where the gassing is much greater. I no longer spray air brush or any kind of paint on the bigger EPS blanks even if we vent them. No matter who glasses boards if they spray paint on a huge blank it is doomed to failure in our climate here. Not worth the bummer of the delam after all the hard work. Color the resin or paint the board afterwards seems to work best for the long term. I’ll even add… If you didn’t laminate the paint side yet get rid of the paint!!
Maybe next time just tape off the plain foam and lam / cutlap your bottom. Then mask off the glassing you’ve already done & shoot the paint on the deck… Do an inlay patch of glass over that, then a clear lam over that to span the cuts and catch the rails… its an extra step, but a lot more reliable for several different reasons.
When you wrote that some of the paint peeled off, that is a sure sign of impending disaster! Very cool to see you building stuff. Later on if I can ever afford it I’d like to build a better work area so I can really spend more time building my own stuff from start to finish like I got into before. Have fun!
Ha ha! Already in the works. BUT, we have yet to test it so I won’t do it unless it’s a sure thing it flies. It has to be super fast or forget it. I hear ya on the house is a mess thing. That’s why I am not allowed to glass at home anymore. My family has banned me from resin work! I sneak in ding repairs when needed though… Sshhhhhhh!!
Benny’s method is the same way I do my boards when using carbon on the bottom- easy to tape to and if you pull out any beads of foam you can use a razor blade to fill with spackle right next to the lap. In the future forget house paint and go with Nova Color acrylic paint then seal with Future.
Seems like some of these guys might have ways of making it work; I don’t know anything about it’s application to surfboards but latex house paint has that tendency to not bond super well if the application surface isn’t primed right, and it also tends to peel off in strips and pieces. So it doesn’t seem like it’s a good material for this application. Maybe better luck with an artist’s acrylic? I’m not sure I’ve never done it…