I just watched the first board (if there are more than one in that video), and it looks very difficult to ride – heaven for the right rider, and those are challenging waves as well, that an intermediate would struggle with on any board, but IMO an intermediate would not really be able to ride that board well (by their own standards) in any but the flattest faced, most forgiving of waves. A lesser rider would not be able to control it and in anything resembling a good wave would perl it often.
Huck , Twinzer set up , I own a 8ft Twinzer made for me by Will Jobson who is credited with coming up with the original idea , the rear fin is 9 in from tail , the fin is 5.1/2 tall with a 5.in base it has 1/4 toe , 5deg cant and the rear of the fin is 1.1/4 from the rail . the front fin is 3.1/4 tall with a 2.3/4 base it has 1/4 toe , 7deg cant and the rear of the fin is 1.1/4 from the rail . the rear of the front fin overlaps the rear fin by 1in and the gap between the two fins is 1.1/4 , the rear fin is a dorsal fin shape and the front fin is a canard shape , hope this helps .
So “Happy Hippy Hodad’s #1 rule for Twinnies.; The tail at the tailblock must be wide. Narrow tailed boards like the Pearson pictured previously work more like single fins and not like a traditional Twin Fin.
That’s interesting!
That’s interesting !
It gets me to thinking about the dynamics of the V shaped single fins we were discussing a few weeks ago
Happy Hippy Rule #2; Fins are usually placed closer to the rail than the stringer. A Twin Fin is not a “Twingle”.
In this area (SC) Bob is generally recognized as The Man when it comes to twins, for both boards being made to be twins and for twin fin layouts and set-ups, relative to the other name shapers. I would guess Stretch is probably as (or more) literate not least of all because Stretch had so much experience installing fins early on (e.g. for Croteau, others, back in the day), going back to the 1980s, and I rode a 5-8 Pearson twin back in the mid-80s that I remember as being similar to a CI Whip or other stubbed HPSB (not a good twin by today’s standards, imo – too loose, too slidey). I’ve seen a number of Pearsons with fairly traditional HPSB and step-up outlines, though, that work really, really well. A friend, ex-shaping bay partner, very skilled rider, has a 7’+ Pearson step-up twin that he says is the best board he’s ever ridden (basically traditional outline).
IMO the message is that no matter who writes the rules, how things work is a function of many different factors, and nobody is the expert on everything, no matter how firm their tone or conviction, and the more closed minded they are the more likely they are to be FOS, not on purpose.
I was buying fiberglass twin fins from Bob until recently because the price was so good on them compared to other retail prices on more upright twins. But I was getting them re-touched and re-foiled by Rich, because they ride so much better after Rich modifies them. No doubt what I’m doing is a factor in that, because it can’t avoid being a factor.
IMO the wide tail assertion will “hold more water” universally when you’re talking about keels, as opposed to more upright twins, and the assertion that twin fins need wide tails is more true “vice-versa,” i.e. wide tails often need twins or quads.
By Bob, I assume you’re referring to Bob Pearson
Also - What is a step up twin?
Thanks for your post
Yep yep: Bob Pearson.
This is a smaller version of the Pearson step-up (or semi-gun, whatever you want to call it): https://www.instagram.com/p/BlcFHMkBl43/
That is the 7’+ board, shrunken down to 6-0 in Shape3d – outline is basically what Shape3d gave, after altering the original dims purely to suit a smaller (50 lb weight difference) rider for slightly smaller waves. The 6-0 is for a 100lb female intermediate rider in overhead to OH+2 or 3 waves. The friend that has & loves the Pearson is 150 lbs and advanced. It turns out the 7’+ one works well for the light female, too, but she is used to throwing big boards around, learned on 8’+ and bigger, leashless.
Any chance you could post a pic of that board?
I have a personal interest in twinzers of that size range.
The ones I shape for myself like to have a bit of rocker added in the center of the board. This ends up giving a board a bunch more tail rocker when you measure at the end using a straightedge.
Sorry Rojan I am out of town at the moment .
Looky what I picked up on craigslist today. Needs some remedial work before I can paddle it out, but I’ll be stoked to give it a try. It’s an 8 footer.
Fins are 9 1/2" up and 13 1/2" up for the canards. 1/4" toe-in, the canards only slightly less toe. 6"tall, 4 1/2" base, 3" & 3" on the fronts. Cant looks like about 3° and 8° on the canards. The distance between fin & canard is 1 1/2". The overlap is about an inch.
There is a little V-channel in the last 6" of tail. The board has a V bottom the entire length, being more pronounced in the nose and tail.
8’ x22" x 2 3/4" thick.
Huck those numbers are close to the ones I posted , my board has a diamond tail , the bottom of the board is flat and a kind of rolled vee starting from the center of the board and maxing out at about 1/4 in at the tail .
Yes you are right! Thnx for posting that, specifics are important for us that build these things! Your board was the first twinzer I ever rode, hoping to get a little more educated on the topic. I think it was ChrisP who got me started on thinking about twinzers. The guy who sold the board called it a quad, if you don’t build them and design them it’s just semantics, but it’s different for us 
Nice find. Can you get aclose up of the logo and Shapers mark/dims?
That’s cool! Thanks for posting that
Let us know how it goes. I wish I’d found out about twinzers when I was starting out, I’d be a better surfer now if I had.
They help to regain lost speed if the timing on the turns is a little bit off. Or at least how it is in my own case.
So in that way they are more forgiving.
But every twinzer I’ve tried out generated a lot of speed throughout the entire arc of a cutback, so they were fun in conditions when guys on boards with regular fin clusters were struggling just to keep up planing speed.
Bob Pearson ripped the lane for decades on his HPLB twinnies, and still sells the Bob Twin today…
https://www.arrowsurfshop.com/product-page/bob-twin
This board is the driviest, loosest, fastest high performance board out there. While still possessing the ability to nose ride. This is attributed to the wide nose, narrow tail, foiled rails, rocker and twin-fin set up. This is the board that Bob Pearson himself rides and created.
