so i am wanting to glue up another eps blank, the last one i used epoxy resin and glue power, but had some small troubles when sanding the rails as the glue did not sand well, i have read a few threads on here and am still unsure on the best glue? can i use pva ( max bond) or something like that? other wise i could do gorilla glue but do not think that will sand that well either
Hi , Think i was going to call you someday about EPS blank glue ups… sorry didnt get around to it.
I have used gorilla glue and I think its the best, you just have to get the amounts right so it does not foam out too much, it sands ok as long as its not too thick as well. Something I did on my latest Eps glue up was glue the center of the pieces and attempt to keep the glue away from the edges, this way its easier to shape/sand and then I figure the edges will be secured/glued with the epoxy glassing anyway… just a thought.
no expert my understanding gorilla glue is a polyurethane glue usually they foam up. Nocean is spot on just keep your glue line in from the edge. the glue is simply used to hold the sheets together wile you shape the glass is the strength. A foaming glue will sand better than epoxy or a pva these two glues tend to tear out the foam were as the G.G. or polyurethane glue will sand and cut better.
no expert at boards but made heaps of models this way.
I’ve used mostly white glue with wood. Roo is good with PVC stringers. Epoxy is good if the board is over 3 inches thick. Water based glues don’t dry to the center if the board is thick. Gorilla Glue works fine but the color can show around the stringer. Super 77 if your in a hurry and are going to glass it right away. It’ll let go in a couple days so you’d better get glass on it. Careful in lining up the sides with contact glue like 77. Once it’s set your committed. The others you can slide around and get everything lined up nice.
For shaping all are OK. Be clean around the stringer with epoxy or it can be a mess. Stuff gets real hard and will fling chunks of resin at you if the glue up is sloppy. White glue and Roo probably shape the best. Super 77 is fine as well. Never used much Gorilla because it wasn’t pretty, it didn’t stay glued to wood stringers very long (couple weeks and it was splitting in the nose) and was expensive. Did a few and they did shape fine.
Just about anything works against the stringer, because the wood is hard and you’ll use your finger plane or whatever there anyway. If you gluing in chunks of foam that you’ll be shaping, like along the rail, if you make sure you use very little, make it a tight fit, and keep the glue in the center of the plug, you’re fine. Usually the glued seam is so thin it shapes well with sharp tools anyway and you don’t notice it too much. Sharp tools are key anyway… Almost all glue shows with tints and pigments. With all this having been said, I use white glue. It’s cheap and it works.
NOTE – in the above pictures this board was glassed with bamboo fabric and that is why you see a yellow tint. The fast cure gorilla glue is white and matches the color of white EPS.
I did this when glueing rails on using liquid nails and PVA (tried both on same board) and it worked well. Epoxy filled the gaps between the surface and the glue line. The liquid nails is not recommended because it’s brown, so shows up when you mess up.
What kind of glue should I use for 1.2# eps to be able to hotwire it? I’m in Thailand and have to glue two 4’ long blanks together. Brands names wouldn’t help me much here…
What is the compound in “ROO” glue? Is it alyphatic or cyanoacrylic or another version of urethane? Where is it sold in the States? What is it’s intended use?
I use a water based impact adhesive. I’ve found that it can be watered down for EPS. Simply brush on both surfaces, wait until dry (about 15 mins) then close joint. it is great as it bonds instantly so no clamping required, and it sands nicely also. I’ve tried PVA but found that it never seems to dry as the air cannot get to it.