Everyone dies.
As of yet, not everyone surfs; altho’ lately it seems like that’s not too far off… Auwe.
I’ve said before, I’m a disabled Veteran with spinal neck issues and many years ago had to decide:
Quit surfing altogether or surf prone forever…
I chose the latter.
Big waves and six hour sessions are no longer in my repertoire but I am still stoked on wave riding; will be even more so in a couple weeks when the kids go back to school and the summer tourists go home.
If there’s a way for me to get my beat up old corpus down into the water, I plan on surfing** until** death.
All of the “old guys” I know, the originators, guys in their 70’s +, the ones in the best condition, are the ones who still surf avidly.
Life’s just one really long session anyway… and ya gotta go for it.