what bothers you more,

 

 

 

Everyone dies.

As of yet, not everyone surfs; altho’ lately it seems like that’s not too far off… Auwe.

I’ve said before, I’m a disabled Veteran with spinal neck issues and many years ago had to decide:

Quit surfing altogether or surf prone forever…

I chose the latter. 

Big waves and six hour sessions are no longer in my repertoire but I am still stoked on wave riding; will be even more so in a couple weeks when the kids go back to school and the summer tourists go home.   

If there’s a way for me to get my beat up old corpus down into the water, I plan on surfing** until** death. 

All of the “old guys” I know, the originators, guys in their 70’s +, the ones in the best condition, are the ones who still surf avidly.

Life’s just one really long session anyway… and ya gotta go for it.