I always started wet sanding when I got to 400 grit during the final polishing process. However, I began following a dry 320 with a wet 320. I think I might have saved myself a significant amount of over all time by doing this. I might try this down to 240. What do you guys do? Maybe better suggestions? And I never “polish” I just go to 1500 wet sanding (400 - 600 - 1000 - 1500).
Oh, and I started using less water in my wets. I think that has been helping quit a bit, too.
What are you trying to accomplish?
What does wet sanding to 1500 get you that a polish won’t? Or that say 600/800 won’t?
Seems like extra work for no reward???
I start at 220 and usually go up to about 400 or 600. I like the “satin” finish. I also like wetsanding, I would start with a coarser grit if I could get it in wet/dry (I hand sand my boards). Less dust.
In the late 50’s and through the 60’s, there was 180 grit wet/dry paper available. Automotive supply, perhaps? Or painters supply?
Hi Huck, yes Silicon Carbide paper is available all the way down to 60 grit and is a wet/dry sandpaper. I, too, like a less shiny appearance. But those darn clients want a more shiny finish. Hence, (wet) sanding to 1500. And it only takes a total 15 minutes to wet sand with 600, 1000, 1500 and the finish is pertty nice. I use two sheets each. I then seal with acrylic (concrete sealer) and burnish that with a Scotch Brite pad. Thanks for your input!
3M makes wet sanding paper down to 100 grit sold at HD. It’s translucent plastic backed and comes in small sheet about 3.25 by 8 inch.
I usually start at 150.
All the best
I have the HD stuff, and don’t like it. I had some maroon wet/dry stuff I loved (by 3M) that was 150 IIRC, and I just can’t find it available anywhere.
FWIW
You won’t find it at the big box stores but Klingspor Abrasives (Made in Germany) makes w&d discs, belts and papers from 60 all the way up to 2500.
An outstanding gem of wisdom. Always good to know about quality resources.
I get mine from:
Wet/dry down to 60 grit. 50 sheets/pack. Just made an order for 180 and 240. I seem to burn through those grits a bit quicker.
…I think that some here discuss one stage and others, another.
Wet sanding is used only in the finishing stage due to lighter grits that can burn the surface and that cuts better.
If you start with coarser grit than 280 for the polishing (as many here know, better to start with 400 if you have a perfect gloss or gloss resin or 320 if you use non gloss resin) you cannot get rid of the swirl marks or/and you will burn the surface trying to avoid those swirls.
For the hot coat is not better to use wet sanding. Like someone says, is better to start the polishing dry sanding the first grit because in this way you WOULD see the imperfections.
Hope is clearly now
With the big machine I’ll do 400 wet. I’ll do the finer grits with a 1/4 sheet palm sander. When I get close to the final finish I do the final grits by hand and then do compound on the big machine.