I agree there is no such thing as a longboard. There are surfboards and there are short boards. No longboards.
In the fall of 1969 I was sitting on the cliff above Newbreak with Larry Gordon. I was bummed because my new Gordon designed fin box with hand foiled fiberglass fin had failed. The fins had a pin similar to today’s Bahne box but no plate and screw. We jammed the fin in, usually with a folded matchbook as a shim and hoped for the best. The best that day was a dangling fin as I had tried to surf some perfect waves down the way at 33’s.
So Larry and I sat there on the cliff above Newbreak watching the surfing with our 7’6’s laying next to us. The usual crew was out at the various spots on some pretty experimental craft. The surfing was about as “high performance†as you would find anywhere with the crew (probably Bunker Spreckels, John Holly, Steve Lis, Fred Grosskruetz etc.) shredding the surf on their late sixties mystical mind machines and pocket rockets. Mike Purpus was out there too on one of his periodic visits to “The Cliffsâ€.
Larry said, “You know, these short boards have been equalizers. There used to be standouts, but now with the new boards being so much easier to ride, high performance surfing is within the reach of a lot more surfers. Can you tell which one is Purpus? Before the short boards there were standouts. Now they’re all standoutsâ€.
Just then a guy with a crewcut paddling a noserider took off far outside of everyone else. He faded to the left across the peak before standing and cranking a hard turn. As he came around, he began walking to the nose, hung five across the wall and then at the shoulder he backpeddled to do a giant cutback into the soup, then back around again for a controlled kick out.
We were both silent for a moment. This crewcut wearing anachronism on his obsolete surfboard had just shattered the moment.
“You knowâ€, said Larry, “I think eventually there are going to be two sports. And they’re going to be called Surfing and Short Boarding.â€
I explained to one of the editors of one of the surfing magazines when I was being interviewed a few years ago that we didn’t call them longboards back in the sixties. The point seemed to be lost on the youngster.
So the real question to me isn’t “What is a longboard?†It’s: What is a shortboard? Answer: Anything not long enough to be considered a surfboard and not short enough to be called a belly board.