I have a six pack of the stuff I have never even opened. (Fear this, buddy.)
I’m just an epoxy guy. Never used a respirator.
How do I protect myself? What do I buy? What respirator cartridge do I look for?
Thx
Greg,
UPOL is a 2 part. One of the active ingredients is Cynaide…get a mask, 3M or whatever organic cartridge type. They cost from $25-$40, Home depot, Lowes, TruValue, etc. When I spray large areas I wear a mask, hood, and cover my skin…I’m not so good at it when doing small projects, but i always wear a mask.
Oh s%*t Greg, I just became a ‘‘BARNACLE’’…
I’d consult the MSDS, but it’ll probably say Tyvek suit and live-air full-face, that’s some nasty stuff.
Some of the boatbuilder guys probably have first hand experience with the product, let’s see if they
can help?
If its 2 part UPOL the B part contains isocyanates and you need to use supplied air type breathing protection. Face mask cartridge type respirators will not protect you. There is a one part UPOL which does not contain isocyanates but it’s not going to be as durable as the 2 part. Go to their website and check the MSDS. http://www.u-pol.com/countries/us/navigate.htm
Dave D
yeah, I know. one day I woke up and I was a barnacle. no one asked me how I felt about. just, boom, you’re a barnacle.
my kids think I’m a dinosaur.
I’m pretty sure UPOL #1 in the spray cans is one part, other UPOL auto paint products in paint cans are 2 part urethanes. I asked the sales person at the auto paint store about the 2 part thing, he said 1 part and showed me another spray can of 2 part product, the can configuration for 2 part was special, much different than a normal spray can that UPOL looks like. One part paints are less toxic than the very toxic 2 part urethanes.
Realistically, if you spraying in a well ventilation area, i.e., outside, or under a EZ up tent then a mask and skin protection will be sufficient. Find out which way the wind is blowing and make sure your up wind. Make sure the overspray is moving towards your neighbors house, and not yours. If you are spraying in booth, locked in a garage, or using your kitchen, then the air line will be the call. It is nasty stuff, don’t spray it in your face, and don’t spray it in a confined area with out the right protection.
You can do a great job spraying outdoors. Do it early in the am when things are starting to warm up, and there’s not much wind. Hose the perimiter area with water to eliminate dust & dirt. 2 part kicks fast like resin, once it sets up it’s as tough as nails. It sands easy but it won’t chip of crack like regular paints. 1 part is good, but it’s not as good for durable surfaces like boat decks & hulls etc. It’s great for vertical surfaces like bulkheads, interiors of hulls, but it’s abraision resistance is something to be desired.
If your really worried about the spray toxic 2 part thing, you can always brush or roll it out. Interlux makes a solvent #233 that will thin out the already thin LP type paints. Mix it up, cut it 10-20%, let it sit in the pot for 20 mins to de-bubble, then brush it on like a gloss coat and wait for it to kick.
Y’all: need to know WHAT, and WHY, about respirators. You could learn it online but here’s the basic for a UPOL user. I assume the above posts are correct about cyanides of one or another variety.
You want to reduce your exposure, internally and externally. So a) don’t use it, or have someone else do it for you; or b) if you do use it, consider several ways to reduce your exposure, as follows
Get plenty of fresh air ventilation. If possible, arrange for a draft that carries it away from your face. That’s why good, modern spray paint booths have bottom exhaust.
Stay in the shack for the minimum time possible.
Normally with an air purifying respirator, you change the filter(s) when you sense it is not filtering out whatever the hazard is, or you change on a schedule. This fails when the toxic compound from which you are tring to protect yourself, is toxic at concentrations lower than what you can sense. This occurs with most of the isocyanates. Essentially, by the time you smell/taste the stuff, you’ve had way too much. Sor for the particularly toxic chemicals the inexpensive cartridge type respirators are not sufficient.
The usual remedy is a supplied air hood. The positive pressure under the hood makes leaks (a nasty feature of a cheap or poorly fitting respirator, or a good respirator on someone who doesn’t shave, or has facial scars preventing a good seal), a thing of the past. The constant flow of good fresh air is refreshing, at the cost of having to drag the hose with you.
But I don’t think you need a supplied air hood for the short duration exposure to a rattle can of UPOL. Just good ventilation, and a cartridge respirator with P-100 rated activated charcoal filters. As stated above, reduce exposure time, and maintain good ventilation.
What your use of UPOL or other toxics does to your neighbors and neighborhood is another matter (and the news there may not be encouraging) but dilution is the solution to pollution. It was also one of the things Grubby Clark used… does anyone remember him?