New shaper, want to know what screen you guys use to finish eps before putting on the spackel? I’m having problems getting a smooth finish and taking out the fine divots and dings to get it ready to prep w the spackel… THANKS!!!
150........then spackle........
then 220...........and ....................glassing crazy stuff!
Different strokes for different dudes. If you want to finish out your EPS boards better then check this tool out and the abrasives;
You can go with what cambone suggested, or you can finish it out as usual to 220 grit, spackle, then screen with 220. New pieces of sand screen tend to pull the beads out instead of cutting them so if you have some new pieces then wear them in. We also suggest to avoid using a standard Stanley 10" surform blade and go with a microplane 10" replacement blade. It doesn’t cut as aggressively, but it will give you a way cleaner foundation that will cut instead of pull or tear the beads.
Thanks! I noticed the standard blade that came w the Stanley surform was super aggressive. I will hop on your link and look into something less chewy
The goal is to not need spackle. So think about that when you shape your surfboard.
Stingray.....................
Hey Cambone-
Here is the original tool and abrasives to do the job http://www.foamez.com/ez-shaping-pad-combo-p-861.html . You can use the 80LD and it will give you a great finish for spackle or finish out with the 120LD or even the 180LD for a super smooth finish. The HD abrasives work great during the earlier shaping process. We even have pro guys that use these HD abrasives to do most of the board since they tear or pull out beads.
Best of luck.
Brad
yep, the Foam EZ Pad & the abranets are the best for EPS. I own that setup, the nets are killer. I use regular screens too-- under my memory foam 12"x12" pad. Splitting hairs @ 120 grit, I can’t tell the cosmetic difference post-glass, maybe an epoxy weight difference when ‘burnishing’ the foam bead w/higher grits when prepping for skin layer (whole other animal there w/ your seal coat). That said, Abranets aren’t great for sanding down a micro-balloon/epoxy seal coat (I use white Indasa paper for that.), but it sounds like you’re doing spackle, so no worries.
Coupled with a nice DIY rough-in setup like this (20# & 30# aluminum oxide sanding sticks w/grits bonded to ultra straight extruded aluminum), I don’t really need a planer (shorties). I fab my own blanks from 1.5#, having a way to ‘true’ a blank w/an abrasive flat bar really helps in terms of quality.
I stopped using screen a while ago. I stop at 220, then to a super tight spackle job, leaving barely anything there to remove. I just go one more time with the 220 on a soft block.
In my experience with EPS, the sharper the tool, be it a shureform blade, new screen or even sandpaper, it tears and pulls beads out causing a deep holes.
I prefer a weel worn screen.
I actually use my sander to smooth out my planer passes.
Super-soft pad.
Vari-speed sander w/ a worn piece of 80 Grit.
Works good.
My thinking is smooth as butter. No holes or tears.
Good finish work.
No Spackle.
I think that a lot of shapers go directly to a new piece of 36 or 40 grit paper.
New just tears too much.
Even after finish is smooth, you can still see the 36 or 40 grit scratches.
…use scrap EPS , same density as ya blank…the price is right.
i use same grit progression with poly or eps
planer
sureform
36 grit on a flex bar
40 grit on sanding block backed with carpet
60 grit on same block
80-100 grit screens on eggcrate foam pad
if eps, spackle (or not) and hit it with the sceen again
no need to go any higher.
eps definately needs a different touch. those microplane blades dont cut enough to be worth anything IMO
wait, what? what density you running grasshopper?
I boxed all my surforms with #1.5 fused cell. Simply worthless on this weight.
typically 2# but occasionally 1.5# and 1#. the lower density the foam the lighter pressure needed. it cuts instead of rips with the right touch. i always follow it with 36/40 grit.