For a shorty, I really like the Brewer/Laird swallow tail shape. I’d reckon about 7’10x21x3+ thick. http://www.brewerhawaii.com/boards/bigboy.html.
If I were you I would be riding a board between 9 and 10 ft. pin tail single fin pulled in nose kinda like the skip frye eagle.
Here ya go:
OK, this could be fun. You’re exactly the same size as me anyway. 
I’m a pretty dedicated single fin longboard guy, but I think I’m getting the idea of what you like.
With the bum wing, I’d actually go even longer than these guys are saying. Better to paddle out & around the long way than have to duckdive a big board. And you can always skinny down the rails for sensitivity. If I was your shaper and knew all the things you’d said in this thread, I’d come back to you with this:
So, say 9’8" long, 17n - 22.5c - 13.75t, 3 1/8" thick, squashtail 2+1. I’d give a blended & very slight nose concave under nose rocker of around 4.25" - enough to handle some late drops and stay out of your way as you come back up, but also just flat enough to allow a 5 now & then. Very slight double barrel concave through the tail. Long sweet spot for speed when you’re standing on the back end but with your weight on your front foot. Low tail rocker, also for speed, like 2.75" and with a hard edge to the rails starting at about 18" up for speed as well - the turning will come from the tail outline curve and the fin setup. Rail radius through the middle of the board about like holding an IN-n-Out single burger with no tomatoes or onions.
I’d squeeze your fin cluster together a bit more than usual, given both your experience, and the low tail rocker that would otherwise work against turnability - say back of the center box at 6.5" from the tail and back of the sidebites at about 15.25. Toed in to meet at the nose, if you drew lines off the inside of the sidebites. Give you nice-sized 4.75" G10 sides and a little 6.5" FCS “Soul Arch” center fin.
Single stringer, sanded finish.
Dang, it kinda sounds like a Wayne Rich board. Would need some pinlines though 
Anyway… fun to see whatever you come up with!
Hi ACE -
Like what Allan posted only 11’ X 24 1/2" (-5" of center) X 13 3/4" N X 15 1/2" T X 6 1/2" NR X 4" TR X 4" Thick (max thickness behind center.) 3/8" belly in the middle with flatter nose (beaked?) and double concave/vee through tail. Flatten the tail rocker behind the tail rocker apex for those longer bottom turns. I don’t have any experience with 4 fins but give it a go. They look cool enough to satisfy those pesky 18 year olds on the beach even when mounted on a longboard.
Oh yeah… bright yellow or deep red - your choice. Heck, it’s your board.
I am starting to get a “picture” in my feeble brain. Gotta calculate the #'s. But some interesting ideas. One thing for sure YELLOW. I have not had a colored board in years, maybe THATS where i went wrong. Remember priorities for ME are paddling and wave catching. If I can’t catch the sucker how am I going to ride it? I still like to lay out a good bottom turn and throw a full size cutback when needed. Some of my favorite spots especially in Baja can really get going. I don’t like to get wet {when its cold} and don’t know how to “duck dive” still “roll em” or “pop over”. Plus thats what channels and timing are for. I still want it to work in summer beach break slop. I know getting ONE board to do all this is tough…My current board does it… But according to the kid i should be riding something else. After all he works in a surf shop so he must know.
I’ve been riding this board all winter. From 2’ to overhead. Josh Hall skosh model, 8’ 6" trifin. I think it’s a shape worth considering.
Ok here are the numbers so far.
Length…8’9" call it 8’10
width…21 3/4
nose…17" 5" rocker
tail…14" 3’’ rocker
thickness…3 1/8"
fins…4
These are interesting #'s cause i used to make board similar to this 20yrs ago…I was 39 not 59 probably 20lbs lighter, two strong arms…
Have not come up with a winner for tail shape pintail, sguare, swallow? all in the running, no one has mentioned MY favorite, diamond.
Based on my experience i have real concerns about a couple of these #'s. what do you think?
Frick, Let’s make it interesting. The board has to do all the above AND fit inside your Baja Bug. Mike
I really like the two designs shown above. I would think a Quigg influenced nose rather than
so wide 17. Time to break the mold Ace. 9’0" x 23" x 3" 14-1/2 nose and 16 tail. Thruster
or quad. Blank choice is key. Have a flat deck with steep Brewer/Diff rails. Flat bottom
up forward or maybe subtle vee with single concave starting mid-board, maxing out at the fins
and ending flat or a tiny vee exit. Possible slight doubles through the fins if it is a thruster.
Dude, you’ve got nothing to lose here. You are so intwined in the local industry scene to the
point where if the experiment fails you can sell that board in a heartbeat. (Do you think you
can sell a board? ha hah. I know you’ve got the skills man).
Oh yeah, be sure to get it glassed LIGHT, total destructo- you can make another quickly and
come out ahead moneywise. Basically this is a giant shortboard and they paddle better than
most longboards of the same size. Remember the giant shortboard I’ve got? The one we
you saw one day we were chatting while watching on of our local reef breaks. Mines 8’6"
and a lot of fun. A 'go to" board and a must have in the quiver.
Resinhead “ate something”. (aprox 8’3")
The board was recently posted in the photo archives. Take this concept and make it a little wider. Now you have a board that will work in big waves and give you the flow that you need. Same rocker. Wild colors required.
Why do so many people want to put you on a longboard?
Who needs a super model that can’t cook?
It’s all for fun…Right?
Share the stoke
Ray
8’0"
17"n x 22" x 16"t rounded pin
single flex fin (7.5 ish")
5" nose rocker x 3’ tail rocker
2 3/4" thick
hard down rails in the rear working to soft down rails toward the nose
“worked for me…”
Interesting comments from Bob Miller on another site regarding his longboard shapes… ACE, its a diamond 
Quote:
Mongo, as you know our quest has been to make bigger, higher volume boards that work. I think the fact that guys are absolutely ripping on really big, wide, high volume stand up paddle boards is validation of some of what we’ve been preaching for years now. There are ways to make big stuff work and we all need to get over some of the perceptions that have been beat into our heads about the way a board is supposed to look. With surfboard design there are very few absolutes…
The 94 is a board I designed for Santa Cruz point surf. Most of the point waves here are pretty soft and generally head high and under. Its wide 24" and about 3 5/16 thick 20" nose and 15 tail. Nose rocker is 4 tail rocker is just under 4… I made it to combine the feel of my log on the nose which I love because of its very smooth, has a soft entry and is super stable. I also wanted something I could still tail surf that had a lot of bite and drive. Its fun to go vertical with a longboard and logs just don’t respond that way.
The bottom contours/channels come from some experimenting we did with really wide sailboards, yes sailboards. Some time ago…windsurfing went thru its wide board revolution, well over ten years ago. Some of the design challenges at the time were getting wide boards onto the rail to start your turn. When you get a big wide board up to speed it can be difficult to get the thing on the rail. Early on we put a ton of vee in them which tended to make them track and not very loose so we tried a little raised vee panel which worked wonders in allowing you to initiate the turn by it riding a little higher on that panel. It made it really sensitive to toe steering and easier to turn. It also channeled the water off the lower part of the rail at the tucked edge and bottom, and along the outside edge of the channel back thru the fins. The board felt like it was on rails thru the turn, really positive. I started using it on wide surfboards after that because it had the positive feel of leaning into a bottom turn like a board with a lot of vee but felt so much faster and looser. The slight concaves are just some refinements I’ve made over the years.
The nose concaves are a little bit like what Rich Harbour does on some of his longboards. We want the water to move thru the board, compressing it thru the channels gives it some lift but doesn’t slow it down. The concave isn’t as deep as the Harbours and the channels aren’t out as far toward the rail. Its more subtle and isn’t as sticky yet still fast and clean.
The template is full and the wide point is around center, it stays parallel pretty far back before arching toward the diamond tail. The rails are moderately low for the fullness. Its really a great all arounder for soft point surf and I’m stoked your loving it, I know its going to improve your surfing. I can’t wait to see you bottom turn and send it into the lip, drive it down the line generating a ton of speed then laying in to a big cutback hitting the white water, snapping it back around and gracefully walking to the nose and soul arching for all your surf buds. Hey, it could happen
Bob’s always been, IMO anyway, a totally unappreciated shaper. You can see his influences in the board, especially the tail curve: he learned to shape from Ole on Maui…
Or:
This one’s 8’6’’ x 23’’ with a big ol’ wide nose, very slight concave/hull into flattish accelerating tail rocker. 3+ thick. This one’s a tri, but a single/side-bite would work.
Alan, that board & the one I posted are great examples of how multiple variables can conspire for similar results…
Your narrow hip is for speed and accelerating tail rocker is for turning; Bob’s wide hip is for turning and flatter rocker is for speed.
Both totally viable interpretations of the one board quiver, I’d say. At my size, I like the wider tails, but yours has a lot of the same potential. This is what I like about longboards - you have enough space to play with all the variables as much or as little as you want.
It always makes me wonder, therefore, when you see production boards with narrow hips & flat rocker in the shops… “longboard guns” I guess… but why do they have 18" noses? And then on the other side of the shop are wide-assed curvy boards with banana rocker. Like paddling with a bucket tied to your leash. shaking head 
Sounds similar to the Takayama Egg.
How bout something like this?
8’4" x N-16 1/4" x 22" x T-14 3/4" x 3" thick with a relaxed entry rocker, flat bottom flowing into slight V panel ahead of center fin, flattening out behind the box off the tail. Domed deck with lower rails. Make em like a Jacobs 422 with that almost tucked under feel. Rounded pin tail and 2 + 1 setup. Put one of your custom cutaway fins on it. Or TA 7.0" Yater center fin with FCS GL side bites. 6.4.4 glass with opaque green cream resin job.
Hey Ace, it looks like you opened a can of worms. If you follow all the advice you will have to shape (or buy) 10 different boards. No one agrees with the shop kid, but there is no consensus here either. I guess thats why so may people have quivers these days.
“Hey Ace, it looks like you opened a can of worms. If you follow all the advice you will have to shape (or buy) 10 different boards.”
I have always said about surfboards that you ask 10 different people you are going to get 10 different answers. What I am doing is taking a “average” of the numbers. Than applying my “shapers eye” toward overall concept. What is REALLY interesting is that no one has come close to what I am currently riding. Although some of the comments in Bennys reply parallel some of my thinking over the last few years. although end results are different .
Looks like I have some more math to do but this is definitely interesting. One thing I can say{something I do when making a board for some one is ask em to bring in board they like and ones thy do not so we can figure out what direction to go} is I have a 8’ “Butter fish” that is wide 24", and thick 3 3/4’'. with a wide/thick tail. That is a board I designed especially for BIG guys. And while I really enjoy HOW IT RIDES I only use it when the water is warmer or the waves are “right”. It is just a little to much work to catch waves on, remember OLD and 50% arm, and if I took it to some of my favorite winter spots I will NEVER get a wave due to too many people on way to big longboards for them. Just part of the equation. I suppose I could give up on one of my favorite spots, or move where its warmer and less crowded, but I have been there a looong and just have to put up with that “basura”.
Don’t have to worry about fitting it in the “Bug”, its dead.
I am pretty happy with the 8-10 -9’ range. For a guy my size this can allow alot of options in how the board rides.
OK ACE, Since i know you like the cliffs, and yes there are way too many people riding giant longboards down there to get a wave with the board you were just talking about, so here’s my board advice… I think Benny’s onto something, Keep it about 8’6", 24" wide, 3.5" thick and with low rocker to give it ease of paddling. The rails you put on YOUR boards of that size should allow for the cuttbacks you want to do. Now as for making it go well at walled up pier? dont know the answer to that one.
Good Luck
Blaine
maybe a spitzer 8’6" o but im 62
