Girlfriend took my 9’4" longboard out this weekend, nosed it into the sand and cracked the nose. What I thought was just some broken glass and a relatively dry blank turned out to be this (after I cut away some of the glass). Right now, it feels as if the foam is not fully cracked, but I’ve only gotten so far as to get the bottom glass cut out. I think when I approach the upper deck portion I’ll discover that the foam is fully cracked. I bought the board used for $250 a little over a year ago, and it was shaped in '99 by Mike Nekomoto in Hawaii. Great board, but I’m not smitten on taking it to the ding guy and chiefing over $100+ to get it fixed (my estimate). Should I strip the glass, reshape the foam and nose, and reglass it, or is there another option? I’ve never worked on a project this large.
Here is your chance to have fun being a ding repair guy! Check out Eva's site under nose crush/buckle for a blow by blow of how to fix your nose good as old!:
no problem haha tons of ways to fix it! the laze way to do it would be get rid of glass and damaged foam fill it with qcell and build out to the rail, re shape the new rail created with resin, laminate over , hot coat, sand, you could also cut out the whole area and fill with foam than reshape the foam and lam hotcoat and sand. all depends on what you want to do and how much weight you want to add.
What do you mean by “fill with foam” like spray foam? or getting a blank and cutting some foam to fit the void? Also, how should I go about securing the new piece of foam to the board if I go that route? Resin? Gorilla Glue?
Never really used qCell, that sounds like it’d take awhile to build out/sand down. or am i wrong?
Would it be a bad idea to remove the glass, and apply resin or glue to the old foam, reconnect the broken off piece to the board if it still fills the void? clamp overnight, Then reglass with 8oz on the top and 4oz on the bottom?
I was thinking of cutting away the top glass tonight just to know what I’m working with.
From there, I’m thinking maybe getting some QCell (how much does one need?) and mixing it up. Then, placing the board on it’s side, tape some cardboard along the damaged, foamless area to keep the qcell contained. then pouring the qcell down into the damaged area, filling the void and letting it dry. Then sanding everything down to as close as i can get to original rails. That will be the hardest part, i’d think.
does that sound like a bad idea? It’s again something I’d like to do myself.
Exactly!! What a mess!!! Did the GF stay out for another two hours after the incident? That’s a lot of sand jammed into that crack. You will have to rinse it well and let dry for some time. Good luck!
rinse like others were saying... then Put a fan right in front of the ding and it will be dry overnight. mix q cell and resin to the consistency of toothpaste or yogurt...make a masking tape dam and fill in the ding. sand. glass.hotcoat.sand.gloss.sand.surf...and next time don't give a board you care about to your girlfriend.
Rinse , dry, (carve out black sand) , Resin filler......sand, glass.......don't use 8oz on a repair.....too hard to blend.
What is resin filler? I've been on Swaylock's for over 5 years....resin filler is a grey area.....
You've got Milled fiber, MicroSpheres, MicroBallons, Cabosil and a few others. I'm not joking. I've got all this stuff in my shop.....I just wanted to find out what all the surf shops were selling in those little baggies...you know...the white stuff that looks like cocaine....sells for about 6 bucks...works great!.....not cabosil....maybe microspheres....maybe?
and I learned the hard way that just about anything ding repair can be called cabosil or q-cell.......welcome to ding repair.
Do some bold strokes man; scribe a straight from the stringer tip down past the last of the damage and cut away the whole mess into some clean foam; hustle a new piece of foam and glue it into the board with some finish resin; reshape the nose and glass the new area nice and clean; repeat procedure on other side if needed; sounds drasticʻ and it is, but it will come out cleaner if done right; think “nose replacement”…chow
Cut away that top glass last night. Went just a bit higher up the board to the good foam to have something to work with, and right up to a mm of the stringer. I figured that old foam was too nasty in there to try and let it dry out on the board, and then try to repair it as it was. Rinsed all the sand out, turned the fan on it for 12 hrs. Will check tonight to see if it’s dry. Next step is to Qcell the new rail/nose bit by bit.
tdance, It is a heck of a lot less work to get a piece of scrap foam some leftover "bones" (rail cut-offs) from a shop and to shape in the missing piece. I don't think you really want to do the whole patch with filler. Fit the new foam nose in, glue it up and glass over. Just like Alamo' says.
