I was wondering if anyone could point me towards a specific brand, or even better yet, a url for what to use as a hard backed pad (not a power or flexpad) for grinding down boxes laps and leashes, and also the sanding discs, or grinding discs for what to use. Any and all info will be appreciated!
Or something similar. I used 80 grit to do both the laps and the fin boxes on mine, after I cut most of the waste off the fin boxes with a flush-cut saw.
Hard plastic backing plate is about 6-8 bucks and 50 grit disk. Critical that the grit disk is perfectly FLAT when you use it, they tend to be warped when you buy them new. Store them clamped/weighted tightly between couple short pieces of 2x4 or something. The paddle switch is a huge plus for triggering. You didn’t hear it from me but I heard that its easy to disable the safety stop on the trigger
A light hand, triggering/feathering and some practice… this set up makes short work of nose thinning, fin boxes, leash plugs etc. Big thanks to BammBamm808 for learning me this years ago (of coure he uses 36 grit though!)
For Fin Boxes and Leash Plugs I use the same Harbor Freight 7" hard pad/velcro backed sanding discs as J-Randy.
Since I only make 10-15 boards a year I can get away with these cheap tools for these quick tasks.
BUT for my real board sanding, I use the good stuff. Milwaukee 5540 with Power Pad and Ferro Pads. Just got some Mirka Gold 8" sanding discs and some Abranet to test out as well…
I’m using something similar to what Jamie posted above except mine is a 4" attachment for my sander. I use 40 grit on fin boxes and leash plugs. With the variable speed I can keep things from overheating
I’m with the high speed grinder group - 50 grit… Be carefull, but for the thick crap… I let it fly. Heck, it’s my own art, so, while I strive not to, if I F up, I can just fix it.
Powerpad with one of those heavy duty backing sanding discs. One disc will last for 20 boards if you clean it with a rubber sanding eraser. 60 grit.I Keep the Milwaukee at slow rpms when doing fin boxes and plugs. If you are scared(I am) put a piece of tape on each side of the boxes or plug and when you hit tape you are about done. (Thanks to Jim Phillips for that one)
I won't use anything for laps but a Harbor Freight die grinder and a 50 grit disk on a three inch pad. Preferably the green 3-M Rol-loc disks.. For plugs and boxes I use one of those Makita 5-inch grinders with the stock hard plastic backer and a 60 grit resin disk( the red ones) to take it down close. Then I sand my hotcoat as normal finishing the plug or plugs and box as I go. In other words; other than the Makita; the stock, normal, production glass shop method. Lowel
I use one of THESE or something like one of THESE fitted with one of THESE with a coarse (60 grit or so) disc. The backing pad is fairly hard and I can focus the pressure right where I need it. A bigger softer pad tends to flop over and hit the areas alongside the box, plug or whatever it is I'm trying to knock down.
But most people use some type of angle grinder/sanderwith a hard pad or air tool right angle grinder with 3" disk
imagine if you could do it right so you wouldn’t have to sand in the first place…
gotta ask (holly/delbert pumpernickle/mike) at libtech watreboards about his no sanding builds
wonder why the japanese can’t forge one of their esoteric hand planers with a blade that would slice through hardened resin or epoxy like butter one fine sliver at a time.
For boxes I use one of the flap disks with the flaps of sanding media. Very rough grit, the roughest I can get. I have the 7 inch pad on my variable speed sander. I like this because the cutting is only on the outer edge and it’s at a slight angle. Once you get used to it, you can work the box down to the lam. I leave a layer of tape on the board so I know when I’m getting to the lam. I also like to do a hot coat first so I have a little resin buildup to play with and not be hitting the dry glass. Once it’s close to the glass, I use one of those 7" hard pads with the velcro backing, then a soft pad and/or my orbital.
I don’t have a go to method for laps. I’ve used a vixen file and different sanders, but I still got a ways to go. Had better luck with a soft pad and 100 grit paper or the RO with 80. I tried using a 90 degree drill and the small pads, but I wasn’t happy with the way it feels in my hands, plus it was a cheapy from harbor freight, and didn’t take too long to stop working.
I just got a smaller grinder to see if it can do laps and boxes but it doesn’t have the variable speed. I bought it to use with cut off wheels, and also do some concrete sanding, but if it works with boards that would be a plus. It’s much smaller and lighter than my big sander, and was only $30. I prefer cutting out fins with a cutoff wheel with a shop vacuum right behind to catch almost all of the mess.
Three inch 3m Roloc disc....yes,,,, that would do the trick...make mine 24 grit and 36 grit. Make sure you buy a quality backing pad too....
think automotive repair not woodworking......In the USA find an Auto Body Repair Supply store....might have to pay a little extra for the good stuff....they also sell stuff like sandpaper and gloves and quality 3M 233 tape