After spending time at Clarkfoam.com, I have three choices for the blank that I want to use for my next noserider. I wondered what some of you thought about my choices. Keep in mind that I like my boards wide, heavy (volan glass) and will put in three stringers, a concave nose, and the biggest, meanest fin alive. Plus, as I order the blank, I am going to have them decrease the nose rocker to the equivalent of a barn door. Well, actually, it won’t be totally flat, but I want as little nose rocker as possible. That’s why these blanks appeal to me. The Stewarts seem too new school longboard for me, and I want something right out of the sixties Beach Boys albums. The three I picked out (but need to narrow it down to one) are: The 9’,9" by Rennie Yater The 10’,3" by Phil Edwards (although the thickness of the beast worries me). The 10’,7"H by Rich Harbour (the one I think will work the best, perhaps), So what do you folks think? My goal is to have a noserider that is between 9,6 and 10 foot, super thick, and, of course, wide concave nose. I am trying to make a good noserider for me (6 foot, 200 pounds, give or take a Caronas).
After spending time at Clarkfoam.com, I have three choices for the blank > that I want to use for my next noserider. I wondered what some of you > thought about my choices. Keep in mind that I like my boards wide, heavy > (volan glass) and will put in three stringers, a concave nose, and the > biggest, meanest fin alive. Plus, as I order the blank, I am going to have > them decrease the nose rocker to the equivalent of a barn door. Well, > actually, it won’t be totally flat, but I want as little nose rocker as > possible. That’s why these blanks appeal to me. The Stewarts seem too new > school longboard for me, and I want something right out of the sixties > Beach Boys albums.>>> The three I picked out (but need to narrow it down to one) are:>>> The 9’,9" by Rennie Yater I meant to add that I was wondering how fifty-fifty rails would work for a noserider. Any advice???>>> The 10’,3" by Phil Edwards (although the thickness of the beast > worries me).>>> The 10’,7"H by Rich Harbour (the one I think will work the best, > perhaps),>>> So what do you folks think? My goal is to have a noserider that is between > 9,6 and 10 foot, super thick, and, of course, wide concave nose. I am > trying to make a good noserider for me (6 foot, 200 pounds, give or take a > Caronas).
I meant to add that I was wondering how fifty-fifty rails would work for a > noserider. Any advice??? I built a 10-6 noserider from a 10-7 Harbour blank, 3-cedar stringers, classic foam, +7/8" kick in tail-rocker. This blank has a really flat deck rocker and may be what you are wanting looks-wise. I would definitely add tail rocker from the natural and leave the nose as is for a noserider shape. Down-rails in nose, up-rails in tail witha lot of belly in the bottom at the tail (Coanda effect). I wound up with a smooth but heavy as hell beast. I made a mistake by shaping the board too thick since I figured go-long go-thick for summer slop. I had so much fun with this board I built a 10-0 X 3"thick NR from a 10-1 Y. Am glossing it this week. What about a 10-1 Yater? I really like this blank as well. Just my 2-cents Good Luck!
Go with the 10’7"H with the “ultimate nose rider rocker”. At your height and weight, I wouldn’t shape anything under 10ft. I’d even consider something bigger. You can easily net a 10’6" out of this blank and it would change everything, the feel, glide, noseriding. Consider a 10’6 with a 20" nose, 24" above center, and a 16.5" tail. Pintail would work well also. It’s claimed that 50/50 rails noseride best, but I’m not sure it’s as important as other factors. Careful about overshaping this blank as it’s pretty dialed in already. Let us know how it goes and be sure to post the pictures. Good luck! -Gregg>>> I meant to add that I was wondering how fifty-fifty rails would work for a > noserider. Any advice???
Go with the 10’7"H with the “ultimate nose rider rocker”. > At your height and weight, I wouldn’t shape anything under 10ft. I’d even > consider something bigger. You can easily net a 10’6" out of this > blank and it would change everything, the feel, glide, noseriding. > Consider a 10’6 with a 20" nose, 24" above center, and a > 16.5" tail. Pintail would work well also. It’s claimed that 50/50 > rails noseride best, but I’m not sure it’s as important as other factors. > Careful about overshaping this blank as it’s pretty dialed in already. Let > us know how it goes and be sure to post the pictures. Good luck! -Gregg Like I have said before I’m not a shaper, just a surfer. I’m bigger then you, but when I was 200 lbs I had a nice 10’6" board shaped from the 10’7"H blank. lots of kick in the tail, pin tail, no concave, soft 50/50 rails a little eggie. Loved the board. Now I ride a 11’ made the same way. Look at the LC reversed rocker, thats the one that makes the best nose rider. But then a stepped deck also works great. Just something to think about.
10’3" Blank from Clark w/ +3/4" tail rocker in the last 24" 10"0" x 18 1/2" x 23 3/8" x 16 1/2" x 3 1/2" - 3/3/4" thick, and a 7" tail block. Add tail rocker to the blank until your thickness at the end is 5/8", then take some foam out of the deck in the tail to create a bit of a kick tail. Thickness 12" up should finish out @ 1 7/8". Shape 5/8" of hull into the bottom then shape 50/50 rails. Mine a 3/4" deep concave out of the nose. Fin box @ 4 1/2" up from tail. http://www.yourdictionary.com/ahd/s/s0915100.html
10’3" Blank from Clark w/ +3/4" tail rocker in the last > 24">>> 10"0" x 18 1/2" x 23 3/8" x 16 1/2" x 3 1/2" > - 3/3/4" thick, and a 7" tail block.>>> Add tail rocker to the blank until your thickness at the end is 5/8", > then take some foam out of the deck in the tail to create a bit of a kick > tail. Thickness 12" up should finish out @ 1 7/8".>>> Shape 5/8" of hull into the bottom then shape 50/50 rails.>>> Mine a 3/4" deep concave out of the nose.>>> Fin box @ 4 1/2" up from tail. Can you tell me how to go about shaping the rounded hull into the bottom? I am confused as to whether you shape it with the planer (if so how what is the technique) or do i whilst shaping the rails. Any advise is much appreciated. BTW looks like a great shape.
After you have your thickness profile and rocker in the blank start drawing lines with a pencil. Draw one line along the rail. It’s depth from the bottom of the board depends on how much hull you want. Then draw a second line along the bottom in from the rail. Again, its measurement depends on how you want your hull to look and work. With these two guidelines you can control the foam. After my initial cuts I draw more lines on the bottom, two at a time, and slowly shape the hull, pushing it as close to the stringer as desired. I usually try and cut the hull so the deepest part coincides with the widepoint or thereabouts. I shape my deck the same way. Rails happen last.>>> Can you tell me how to go about shaping the rounded hull into the bottom? > I am confused as to whether you shape it with the planer (if so how what > is the technique) or do i whilst shaping the rails. Any advise is much > appreciated. BTW looks like a great shape.