just wondering what everyone is currently making? im making a demo board for people to try from the shop i work in as people cant grasp the fact that i make custom boards they always want to see a board. it going to be a 7’2-22.5-19-16 egg/mini longboard! this is a the first time it has been a blank canvas for me and now i get to try the resin tint like on the damascus pics still dont know whether to go for blue/white or red/yellow.
just wondering what everyone is currently making? im making a demo board > for people to try from the shop i work in as people cant grasp the fact > that i make custom boards they always want to see a board. it going to be > a 7’2-22.5-19-16 egg/mini longboard! this is a the first time it has been > a blank canvas for me and now i get to try the resin tint like on the > damascus pics still dont know whether to go for blue/white or red/yellow. I’m no pro but in my experience yellow is a nice, forgiving tint and I’ve had nice results with light blue. Red might kick your ass, dark orange kicked mine. How about yellow bottom/clear deck/red pinline? Have fun. PS Aren’t you in Ireland? You guys getting waves? Florida has had the worst @#$@# winter surf I can remember.
7’4" x 17" x 20.5" x 17" displacement hull. Looking now for some flexible resin with which to glass the board in order to retain flex in the tail.>>> just wondering what everyone is currently making? im making a demo board > for people to try from the shop i work in as people cant grasp the fact > that i make custom boards they always want to see a board. it going to be > a 7’2-22.5-19-16 egg/mini longboard! this is a the first time it has been > a blank canvas for me and now i get to try the resin tint like on the > damascus pics still dont know whether to go for blue/white or red/yellow.
A 7’ Balsa / Cedar hollow…Click the link… Does that come with the Van Paul??? Me its Flex… and filling the orders as they come in from 6’3 to 9… Finishing Dan Calahans woodys 9’ Retro Balsa Gun and a 6’ solid redwood towin wall hanger… http://surfnwsc.com
7’4" x 17" x 20.5" x 17" displacement hull. Looking > now for some flexible resin with which to glass the board in order to > retain flex in the tail. I saw this shaped blank yesterday. It looks like a little Simmons board…really bitchin’. Spence did a great job.
I shaped Florian Morlat a full-on Simmons board. 9’8" x 19.5" x 23" x 20" x 15" tail block. Blade thin rails. Tri-plane S-deck. 1.75" of displacment hull. It is being glassed with no boxes or fins glassed on. Yesterday I made up a set of 4.5" full foil twin fins, 3/8" thick, and glassed them on a scrap of foam, then sanded away all the foam. Next, I sanded the whole mess smooth, and trimmed the 6 layer glass base area in a 3" wide circle around each fin. The idea is to “stick” the twin fins on the board with two sided foam tape, and in small waves try to determine if twin fins work on this board, if the fin template I made works, and where the fins should go. I figure the experimentation process will take a couple of weeks of shifting the fins around on the board. I think I am going to drill tiny holes in the fins and runs some fine fishing line through them, and attatch the line to the deck, to act as fin leashes. Because, they will come off sooner or later…probably sooner. If and when we find the right design and location for the fins, then I’ll glass on a fresh set permanently. The hope of all of this is to have a Simmons board with glass-ons, but with the knowledge of box fins. This may well be a grand waste of time…and a nice, simple fin box gets dropped in where it should have been from the beginning!
Paul Gross got me inspired after the Innermost thread. I started drawing templates today based off of the monster on McTavish’s board. As of yet, I know no surviving specimen, so this is done right off the screen and enlarged to size with the aid of a copier…then transfered to 1/8" sheet wood. I was thinking of laying up some glass even. Just thought it would be a useful reference and something fun to do.>>> just wondering what everyone is currently making? im making a demo board > for people to try from the shop i work in as people cant grasp the fact > that i make custom boards they always want to see a board. it going to be > a 7’2-22.5-19-16 egg/mini longboard! this is a the first time it has been > a blank canvas for me and now i get to try the resin tint like on the > damascus pics still dont know whether to go for blue/white or red/yellow.
Does that come with the Van Paul??? …Sure, how deep is your wallet…???.. http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/New.htm
Paul Gross got me inspired after the Innermost thread. I started drawing > templates today based off of the monster on McTavish’s board. As of yet, I > know no surviving specimen, so this is done right off the screen and > enlarged to size with the aid of a copier…then transfered to 1/8" > sheet wood. I was thinking of laying up some glass even. Just thought it > would be a useful reference and something fun to do. Gregg, If you want to make a large flex fin that’s really functional, keep the aspect ratio around 13 to 1. (A 5" long base calls for a 3/8" panel, an 8" long base calls for a 5/8" thick panel, etc.) Big fins made out of panels which are too thin are doomed to failure in the water. They just track in a straight line. Also, cut the foil all the way into the base and leading edge. Check out resource #444 for the right layer pattern. And let the flex run down about 35% of the way from the tip, but don’t let the very tip get too flexy. A semi-stiff flex that runs well down the fin has the best combination of power and release.
The hope of all of this is to have a Simmons board with glass-ons, but > with the knowledge of box fins. This may well be a grand waste of > time…and a nice, simple fin box gets dropped in where it should have > been from the beginning! The reason Florian is interested in making his Simmmons-type board a twin fin is so he can ride Malibu at 18" and skim over the rocks, drawing as little water as possible.
Gregg,>>> If you want to make a large flex fin that’s really functional, keep the > aspect ratio around 13 to 1. (A 5" long base calls for a 3/8" > panel, an 8" long base calls for a 5/8" thick panel, etc.) Big > fins made out of panels which are too thin are doomed to failure in the > water. They just track in a straight line.>>> Also, cut the foil all the way into the base and leading edge. Check out > resource #444 for the right layer pattern. And let the flex run down about > 35% of the way from the tip, but don’t let the very tip get too flexy. A > semi-stiff flex that runs well down the fin has the best combination of > power and release. The other thing is to avoid a knife leading edge. A medium small, blunt-round leading edge is a lot more forgiving.
A 7’ Balsa / Cedar hollow…Click the link… I just love your website. Fixed all the links now as well. Perfect. I would love to try a similar project, but I’m woried that I might screw up a very expensive project and end up with an ugly dog. The availability of materials and my woodworking skills are not that good either. But those boards look so sweet… regards, Håvard
I just love your website. Fixed all the links now as well. Perfect.>>> I would love to try a similar project, but I’m woried that I might screw > up a very expensive project and end up with an ugly dog. The availability > of materials and my woodworking skills are not that good either. But those > boards look so sweet… …Skills and tools are a must…But if you don’t challenge yourself, what’s the point… I built foam boards for myself for 25 years before attempting a hollow, so unless you’re really old a wood board is probably in your future…Just keep those mental challenges coming… Paul http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/New.htm
AWESOME…THANKS, PAUL!>>> The other thing is to avoid a knife leading edge. A medium small, > blunt-round leading edge is a lot more forgiving.
…Skills and tools are a must…But if you don’t challenge yourself, > what’s the point…>>> I built foam boards for myself for 25 years before attempting a hollow, so > unless you’re really old a wood board is probably in your future…Just > keep those mental challenges coming…>>> Paul I’m a begginer at board building. I sort of started the opposite way : Board n°1 was a 7’3" balsa/foam sandwich (the local glass shop did the laminating and glossing for me). 50 hours labor … The shape is fine expect the foil (too much nose and tail thickness …) Board n°2 was a 9’4" “tidal bore rider” made from 20 strips (3 cm each) of high density closed cell styrofoam, heavy glassed with epoxy. Another 40 hours …The board works really well and looks good as long as you don’t look too close at the glass job !!! Board n°3 is under way. I wanted to experiment either hollow wood or expanded cork but I’m short of time so this time I’ll try doing it the conventional way (polyurethane blank and UV resin). I was told it’s easier, so I Hope get the shape and laminating right this time … Pierre.
AWESOME…THANKS, PAUL! My current project is “faux finishing” furniture…basically you take something like a nice old table and make it look like it came from the dump.“Shabby Sheeit”.Its a hoot and the rich matrons love it.Gives you money to stash so you can survive when the weather gets warm whilst going bankrupt.Yes boys surfboard building is truly an addiction.Watch yourself. R. Brucker
Along those lines…I’m building a maple fireplace mantle…Laminate cabinets for a dentist office…And Cabinets for a residence remodel…It;s all fun… Paul http://www.hollowsurfboards.com/New.htm
Building a couple of boards and doing repairs for friends. Just finished shaping a 6’ bat tail, and getting ready to shape a 6’10" big guy. Also tending to some wounded surfboards; a Towers 9’2" with a cracked stringer and another board with a fin cut on the deck.
Along those lines…I’m building a maple fireplace mantle…Laminate > cabinets for a dentist office…And Cabinets for a residence > remodel…It’s all fun…>>> Paul – Surfmats, surfmats… and more surfmats to be ridden in Hawaii, France, California, Mozambique, Australia, South Africa, Pacific Northwest, etc. The successful completion of a 10 month long “twister” rotary (mat) valve project… and after enduring weeks of serious home PC hassles, I
m finally back online. Its great to be reading Swaylocks!