When 12" isn't a foot

How tall would a 6 foot surfboard be if measured by “Hawaiian style” wave standards?

About 3 feet

Howzit? You talkin pushin 6? Solid 6 or 6 plus?

Let’s see.

A 6’6" thruster would be 3’3"… And also overhead.

hehehe! Love it! What a daft way of measuring waves :smiley: Hear all kinds of guesses about the logic behind it but I still think it’s a hero thing :stuck_out_tongue:

Anyoone able to prove otherwise?

More importantly, does that mean my 3 1/2" uhhh… “organ” is only 1 3/4" ? I better stay out of the cold water or I’m really in trouble.

Your board would be about knee high. I won’t comment on John’s disability. Mike

no , John , the funny thing about that is …

wave height is halfed to sound macho [or just being dumb , actually , 12" DOES = 1’ , at least in MY world ! ] , but dick size is doubled [in your case , multiplied by about 6] to sound macho.

it’s all bullshit , to me .

(but funny , too …thanks chasing lefts / parker for bringing that …er … “up” ?! )


chip has it.

measuring a board from the back as opposed to the front. I would that be nose / tail or deck / bottom?

In reply to:

“How tall would a 6 foot surfboard be if measured by “Hawaiian style” wave standards?”

A head high wave is two foot unless you’re 6’ +. Then beyond that you have to start encorperating the size and shape of the pocket/barrel into the size factoring. So I would say a board that is “six foot hawaiian” would be about

12’ length X 5’ width X 6" +++ thickness = pound you enough to scare you and/or injure you if you not respectful. I’m an OK surfer, but last time I surfed 6-8’ Middles I did a bottom turn, a mid-face turn and went straight for saftey (and perhaps the occasional cuttie) on every wave. Had a blast and only bounced on the reef three times on one wave. Not bad…I even found my trunks after they got ripped off of me.

Like “Turtle” says in that 90’s movie North Shore: “When the wave is here, don’t be there, or else you’re gonna get drilled.”

Got to admit, that cheezy hollywood flick got that right.


P.S. don’t wear snap button trunks in the Islands:)

underestimating wave height

is a way to encourage each other

to paddle out in intimidating conditions

the NYAH NYAH factor in wave height

underestimating to impress world pop of machismo

is a well worn criticism.

waves never gatting over 6’ in the days of old was

recently eclipsed.

the eclipse was pointed

the silver dollar crossed the sun

the doubling of wave heights

by assigning face measuring

allowed the Promoters of big wave riding

to advertize 100’foot waves

telling the newyorque tymes that

huge death defying 6’ waves that were really really really really scary

no reporters left the press room.

every really equals an exponential increase in wave height.

Now the Judges are giving out

prizes to the biggest wave -photos-

and the measure them waves for hours

why dont sombody sue the commitee

I think jadfer Kalrythrian’s wave was bigger

than stutz Fremaltonkers by a chopand a half.

74;000 $ is nuttin to sneeze at…

what about some controversy

chinese feet can be really small

samoan feet can be really big

and their’s nothing sweeter than a new babys feet

pokin out from under a warm blanket.


when I put on my deets

my feets

is really really big.

Haha! Funny subject… Growing up here in Hawaii the wave scale was already etched in stone. How it came about doesn’t matter to me. What is, IS. I was young and wondered how the heck a 3’ wave at Waimea shorebreak seemed so much larger than the yardstick the teacher at school used to hit us with! 6’ Pipeline was NOT 72" high!!! As years went on you just got used to cutting whatever the actual wave size is in half. This way everyone was on the same page and knew how big it was… If all your friends were calling it 4’ and you were calling it 8’ you’d get the shit teased out of you!!! It would be like you were boasting to make yourself look good. “Oh yeah, I was bodysurfing 8’ barrels at Waimea…” Hahahaha!!!

Now people come from all over the world with face size, back size, 2/3’s of the front size… Hahahaha!!! If we talk wave heights to each other who were raised here its old school Hawaiian scale which is 1/2 of the face height and we always give it the “around” fudge factor… If we’re talking to someone who may not use that scale we always say face size… THE TRUE SIZE OF THE WAVE IS ALWAYS THE WAVE FACE!!! But, Hawaiian scale will never be changed and that’s just the way it is here…

Now you guys talking about your members… Wouldn’t it make sense to use the Hawaiian scale too? You know, “Honey, I’ve got a really small winky…” Then she would say, “Wow! It’s a lot bigger than you said it was!” See the value of the Hawaiian scale? Hehe…