I make the kid drive
And the 2 old guys fish and drink beer!!
nice fish! i'm jealous. i miss going to the North Shore... how long you there? hopefully it doesn't stay flat...
ha ha ha @ the second photo. that's an interesting "pose"...
That fish is kinda small !! HA HA
Howzit resinhead,Nice little Ono there, should get some nice steaks out of it, save some for fish tacos since it is great for them. Aloha,Kokua
All ready back. Left just as the new swell was hitting. Didn't get big waves, but I got good waves.
Was pretty nice cuz I could surf with my kid every day and not feel like he was going to get in bad trouble. It's funny, when they call the North Shore flat, there's still a chest high to maybe even head high at a few spots thats braking.
Strange in what Hawaii thinks flat is?
In November ‘80 I had brought 2 of my riders, Kurt and Jim wilson to California, we were to meet up with Rob Keith in Carlsbad for a photo shoot with Break Out Magazine. The surf as not magazine quality, but 2-3-4’, while looking a typical “Cali” dude strolls up with his sprout and avocado sandwich in tow and blabbers out, “Dude, it’s like totally flat”, we looked at each other and about spit a seam, totally flat is 3 months of nothing to ride at all, not waves we would we would leave the car running and jump into the ocean for.
In a 70’s Surfer Mag article, James Jones climbed the Ala’Mo pole at the edge of the channel with a tape measure in hand, pole sets were always refered to as 8 foot sets, the tape from the top of the pole to the water was 18 feet
And in 1971 the Almo Pole was washed out by a big south swell. I was the first guy out ,Corky Carol was the second out and Lopez the 3rd . I caught 3 waves made 2 and eat it on 1. I was scared shitless !!! The waves were breaking across the channel and right up on magic island and that was in the morning before it got really really big !!! Ya for sure an 8 foot plus day!!!
Howzit Wood_Ogre, That was a great swell and I scored some insane waves at 3's. Aloha,Kokua
Kokua . I remember that swell as if it were yesterday. There was so much mist in the air and so much ozone and that wakiki sea weed smell just hung over everything. It was like electricity in the air , Every thing just charged up. Kinda like when Waimea breaks! I spent 2 days on my friends sailboat in the Ala wai just watching it all come down. I don't remember if it was before or after the pole washed away we watch some stupid guy in a sailboat (maybe 27 or 30 ft) try to go out the channel got caught by a big set and pitch pole backwards in the midle of the channel comeing back up with no mast or rigging. In the midle of the channel mind you!!! We just hung out there taking it all in smokin and drinkin beer and just living the life and loving it! Memories like that are the good things in life !!
The summer of '63 was an epic one, it was the end of my junior year and my parental units were giving me a little more rope to hang myself.
My pal John Greenwood was a year older and had a Henry J coupe that was the main mode of surf transit, Ala Mo’ just kept churning out well overhead surf, we surfed until we couldn’t paddle any more, then would crash out in the Henry J for the night in the parking lot. We slept in the parking lot for 23 nights in a row, even paddling out at 2AM for full moon sessions. How F’n stupid was that, there’s no sharks around the mouth of the Alawai, no leahes, I guess at 125 lbs. there wasn’t enough to make a meal
When it's flat on the North Shore.........That's when the diving gear would come out. Or, we would go jump off Waimea Falls, or, ''jungle cruise'' in the hills above the North Shore. Lots of army stuff going on up there. Harold Bloofield would go up there and steal nitrostarch to make his ''fireworks'' and bombs with. There was always a way to entertain ourselves, when the surf was down. Samurai movies at the Haleiwa, and Koga theaters,were attended on a regular basis. Some of the most memorable times in my life were spawned there.
The only time I surfed Hanalei… they guy I rented a board from said it was and I quote… “It;s like 4-6 old style, nothing great”…
Haole translation:
15’ faces and perfect
drew
[quote="$1"]
All ready back. Left just as the new swell was hitting. Didn't get big waves, but I got good waves.
Was pretty nice cuz I could surf with my kid every day and not feel like he was going to get in bad trouble. It's funny, when they call the North Shore flat, there's still a chest high to maybe even head high at a few spots thats braking.
Strange in what Hawaii thinks flat is?
[/quote]
I have family on Oahu and I constantly have this conversation here in LA. I've had lots of fun surfing the North Shore on flat days. You'll drive by empty waves that would have 75 guys out if they were in SoCal. Like my buddy says, it's frequently "1'-10' with plus sets" over there.
When a swell is actually forecast, there is still all variety of sizes on the north shore depending on direction. I surfed a "small" swell last May that was forecast to be 4-6' California (1-3' Hawaiian) and there were overhead and a half sets easy.
Howzit drew, Who did you rent a board from,was it Hanalei Surf Co.? If it wasin the last couple of years ot was probaly a guy named Gordon since he handles the rentals for them. If it was Kai Kane it may have been Bobby Cocke, other than that I don' know who wold be renting boards. A couple of years ago Quick Silver bought Kai Kane and I don't know who runs things there now. Aloha,Kokua
who wants fish? [img_assist|nid=1054880|title=hmm|desc=|link=none|align=center|width=640|height=627]