I noticed a post on vent plugs from yesterday (Tuesday) for use on chambered/hollow boards. I believe I recall J. Phillips and a few others state in the past they do not vent their boards and have had no problems over many years. Is there actually a time and a place for venting or is it more one theory says vent and the other says no bother? I’m assuming a single vent hole suggests that all chambering be connected to this single common opening? Any words of wisdom?
this text is taken from the FAQ page at www.hollowsurfboards.com. Im posting it here without Paul Jensen permision. I hope he doesnt bother about it. but i think this is the answer you are looking at. I saw your reference to use of a vent plug. I remember hearing stories of the old Wave surfboards exploding when they were left outside! I would like to know if you have a description / source / part number for the type vent plug you are using. …I use an 8/32 brass screw that threads into brass insert that is on the nose, flush with the deck…You can get a threaded insert at a good hardware store or specialty screw shop…If you can’t find one, I’ll mail you a set…I also put a rubber o-ring on the screw … Is it automatic when pressure inside reaches a certain point or is it something you have to remember to do manually? … The screw is in the board ONLY when it’s in the water (OK, you can walk to and from the water), but you really don’t want major air pressure differences between what’s in the board and the surrounding air… At what point in the construction process is it installed? I.E. Before glassing, after final polishing, etc.? …Before hot coat… Do you really need some sort of valve to let air out of the board when it is not in use? …ABSOLUTELY…!!!.. Is this valve needed to create buoyant pressure once closed during a session? …It really doesn’t do that much… Without a valve could pressure be built and cause delamination or burst through the epoxy itself? …It’s a possibility…
I didnt vent my board to start with and the deck delaminated. Put in a vent, it will save you a lot of pain in the long run. If you are in a hot climate, vent the board as soon as you have created a sealed air chamber, the air in the board will start expanding and contracting from this time.
This entry was on the very last page of the current forum, page 261.
I bumped it to show how the combined knowledge and experience of all our members have resulted in some very fine craftsmanship.
So proud to be a member.
I don’t remember posting that…
lot’s of “I’s”
Jack
Proud to be a member too. Lots of knowledge and funny guys here.
Here’s my current vent…
A brass 8/32 screw…
Drilled lengthwise, then drilled horizontally…
Not easy…
If I loosen the screw just a few turns, it vents without having to be fully removed…
Nice! I thought once about it, but still think it’s impossible. How you did it?
Jack
Hand drill…
Vise grips…
Here’s what I use :
It’s made of brass, it costs less than 1 dollar, it’s widely available (at least over here in France). This little thing is used in our house on the heating equipment. It’s meant to be water tight with water sometimes hot sometimes cold and stand high level of pressure. On the heating system you open the vent to get the air bubbles out of the riadator. No tools needed, all you have to do is unscrew a few turns and let the air come out. Works perfectly for my hollow longboard gun.
:
The type of bolt Paul made is also available in the automotive parts stores. It is called a “banjo bolt” and is used in brake systems - fluid can flow up the bolt and out the sides or vice versa. Available in many different sizes.
Now you tell me…!!!..
Do you have any idea how hard it is to do that…???..
Sheesh, auto parts store…
Hi Paul, if you do look for that type of a bolt, forget the chain auto parts stores like kragen or autozone. what you want is the type of store that sells mostly wholesale to repair shops (and delivers) but has a walk in customer counter too. the guys that work there would actually have some idea of where to find the size banjo bolt you were asking for. they may even have them out on the floor in drawers for you to browse through.
But it’s pretty cool that you made your own!
Marabout & Paul: Good, good…but what do you screw them into?
Thanks
Pierre, what size are you using?
all venters:
are you getting the screw/bolt head flush with the deck?
I’m concerned about beginners getting scrapped by the head (when perling…). Also stubbing a toe while walking the deck… I like the look of Bert’s because his look to be flush, but I’d rather buy than custom build/order a part.
thanks
This is what I’ve used on my 3 HWS, got it from a windsurfing shop, they are plastic with a rounded flange on it that sits on the deck. I got a brass screw for my first one, sits pretty well flush with the deck.
Hi Paul,
They also use 'em ( banjo bolts) a lot in diesel fuel injection systems. Although I have also seen very similar screws to what you’re making used in aquarium air supply piping/plumbing for , well, letting air out of the system or draining stuff, etc.
Still and all, though, it’s an awful pain to go chasing down that stuff, besides which they don’t give 'em away, things go out of stock, etc. … and there’s an easier way to make your own - with brass machine screws as cheap as they are, it’s maybe worth the time to make up a jig.
Now, any decent woodworking supply or for that matter hardware store will have brass threaded inserts - you may well use 'em for the vents, no?
And if you have access to a drill press -
Thinking about it, the ideal centering rod might be one of the removable tapered round rods you find in the big dividers wood guys sometimes use for layout - the ones that can be removed and replaced by a pencil. Though any tapered rod would work fine - a taper drill for instance, like Fuller makes for wood screws. Chuck it into the drill press and… ( with the power off, of course)
Center the threaded insert under the drill, using the rod to align it - lining it up with the center hole you see in most drill press tables would be a good move. Clamp the jig in place, thread a screw up through - a lock nut on the top ( not shown) might be a move if the drill causes the screw to unscrew itself. Drill away, remove, put another screw in and repeat until either you have enough or you’re bored with it ( pun intended) - then, hang the jig up someplace and there ya go.
I’ll also note that the same setup, clamped to a block that’s clamped to said drill press table ( so that the screw itself is horizontal) , well, that’d make drilling the crossways vent hole itself pretty easy -
hope that’s of use
doc…
4est, the vent I use is quite small, probably about 8 mm diameter. The hole itself is around 1 mm.
Unfortunately, it is not a flush deck system. It’s burried halfay trough the deck (The side hole is right below the deck level).
I put the vent near the nose. It doen’t bother me as this longboard gun is not intented for nose riding.
b The part that goes in the board is a product called “Bookbinding Screw Posts”… [/b]
These are for 8/32 screws…
My local screw specialty store orders them in for me…
I get a bag of 100…
I get them in brass with an open back…
(above) These are the 8/32 screws drilled out…
Notice the rubber O-ring…
(above) I drill a hole in the deck of the board and slip the post into the hole…
I put a bit of epoxy under the flange to keep it from turning…
I glass over it, but keep the hole clear…
Just unscrew it a few turns, enough to expose the hole and “Voila, It Breathes”…
No more lost screws…
And, trust me, Paul NEVER forgets to unscrew that thing when his board is out in the sun.