where’s that spice chick…was that a gauntlet I think those guys missed it… the ball got fanned … a pure strike in the classic sense …where art thou muse… allow the collective to vent and clense… the preoccupation with sociology in the line up distracts us from the higher form…melding with the membrane that coats this glorious planet that alows us an oppertunity to assume communal posture wraped deep within the magic boundry layer of curls swirls chops an drops … I like it when I get a wave and the closer I get to the pure experience of riding it without getting Hung on the posessive mind set the greater we all become … If they bug you surf somplace else that they cant surf maybe not even see…another ‘s blindness can be a great oppertunity for solitude…stand up and say HEY watch this …and then disappear …only to reappear again happy an surfed out…Ha Ha …Who was that masked man with the silver bullet? He sure was having fun…how did he do that…I bug the hot guys so much they wanna take off in front of me and I deny them the insight of my creativity and refuse to surf with em until they cut me some slack and let me have a wave …they can shove the “GOOD” spots into their elimnative tracts and defile them into mass consumptive surf horror spots…the new crop of promotional surf kids may come to realize that what they sold they will never get back…they sold the BANZAI PIPELINE ,G-LAND- indo …gold coast …west coast…east coast …J-Bay …Honolua -Ala Moana…God bless their mortal souls…the money’s never gonna be enough to buy back a good day with a coupla swell pals and a magnanimous gift from the oceans of this glorious planet When I go surfin’ I wish to be surfin with all the benevolent spirits living and passed … I can insert an amicable spirit of my choice on every empty wave I see pass by…Go Harpo…Go Earl …GO Chuck…GO FELIX … YYYAAAAAAWWWHHOOOOOOOOOOOOO …hey You… go… .GO >>>>GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!..you deserve a wave…I’ll take the next one…ambrose…tomorrow morning Woody Brown gets a wave… Go Woody…Woody Eckstrom too? Yea you too woody.
uuhh…o.k.
its true Ambrose-yet with the right mind set a crowd day at cowell’s, the point the lane can be fun. smile let someone go hoot for a friend(or a stranger). its still the same inside,you know what I mean? oh yeah, about that blue machine…
it was a tinted gloss not a laminated color…sand a blue machine and its clear under neath… the lane…ha! …It beach…yeah…goin’to the dump…go woody…ambrose…on the dump run
by the way …thats chicken foot
i never seem to fit at IT. the new people call it dog beach- a pox on them and the suv they drove three blocks to have their dogs shit at the water line.the barrels are still there but my heart isn’t. you go, you haven’t got one in a while.
POLIHALE on the full moon far from the dogs of Yuppistan although this time of year the decomposing material in the summer sand from the large crab population can fill in for the quadripeds defecating with abandon. the winter swells move acres of sand down the beach and liberate the forign material into the water and cleansing and feeding the next organisms in the food chain…it some times stinks… I had a friend that grew a prize winning canabaplant on canine manure from the pet left for him to babysit when his son left home … I have always believed the best place for abandoned scat is on the hood of a SUV of course one owned by a dog lover is best because they can derive some satisfaction from recouping some of the investment made in dog food…bless their hearts They love their dogs …two swells with a third can it be possible polihale could be good? gotta find a car… ambrose … sleeping on the long drive home
Hey there… you drive careful Ambrose.
youre right dale we could use a governing navigator…dave’s driving we’ll pick you up at the small jet airport… if you leave now you should be there in time for usto make the drive and to see the sunrise and moonset on the west side…you can have shotgun…dave’s gotta be at work at 1:30 so we’ll leave early enough to avoid the heat of the day…take the Gulf star the wing span on your Lear-jet is inefficient on the hawaii hop …oh yeah just bring Your TAM- o -shanter and acoupla NIFS rash guard an a towel we’ll bring water and stop for food on the way home at Ishihara’s …aloha…ambrose… I’ll be wearing My panama pool shark hat phone me when you are on the approach…otherwise we wanna get going about 5:30
God, if only the waves were that far over my head.
thank you mi amigo Ambrose!! as you were-Mateo
can you stop at Omoitie’s on your way and pick up a Lilliquoi pie? fax it to my office- fed ex will take too long- it would go really well with my morning coffee.
8:10 to11:30 small clean dropping tide Tamoshanter6 guys out at a time on amile o’ beachbreak 2’ samoan when we got out there were 4’set or two gettin bigger by the hour all yous guys was out withus catchin the waves we couldnt reach on the stam…agent ambrose …out
ambrose, your crazy! but u make me laff