Ok, I’d really appreciate your help I’m 5’9" and a lean 165 lbs. currently riding a 6’1" x 18&3/4 x 2&3/8 round tail performance board. It sees the water if it’s head high or bigger with some hollow sections & punch. It turns very well for the most part, but seems a bit long at times and could use a bit more paddle. I’m thinking of beefing up a 6’0" version of the same template. So here’s the question: What’s the best way to increase paddle without harming performance in punchy, hollower surf – 1) width (6’0x19x2&3/8) or 2) thickness (6’0" x18 3/4 x 2/12) or 3) something else? Thanks
Hey First of all, you’re splitting hairs, with a microscope. Depends what you like, as it’s personal feel you are looking for. Some surfers like wider/thinner while others like thicker/narrower, for the same overall float. As for paddle, same thing…depends how you are built and how you paddle. “Lean” is also depends. I did most of my best surfing at 5’11 and 138lbs. Surfing, being the subjective sport it is, just is full of personal preferences, rather than object absolutes.
Lee, Thanks for your response. All of that said, what is your impression of width changes / thickness changes as they pertain to altering the ride properties of a board? 5’11" & 138lbs? Dude, must be nice to be that light. Lightest I’ve been in recent memory was 151 lbs. at 3% tested bodyfat when I was competing in college…haven’t been in a gym in ages, but it’s tough to shed old muscle even if you want to. Anyway, thanks for any further info.
Hey I think a lot of it depends on frontside or backside, speed of your normally encountered waves, the kind of bad effect you are trying to avoid, besides general likes and dislikes. Oh, and very important, your surfing style. For me, I have a problem with getting overpowered by bigger, faster waves, so tend to ride narrower but thicker boards. I float like an anchor, so a board that might bob a little is fine and reassuring. I HATE the feeling of dropping into a nice wave, and have the board going too fast to feel positive about a strong bottom turn, without readjusting my feet. I HATE boards that float badly, but catch waves kinda good. Just feels not right to have a board plane right off on the takeoff, when it paddles like a slug. I like a board that I can stuff into a full, laydown bottom turn, especially backside (I’m goof, best waves are point rights), dragging my forearms and banking the board over past 45 degrees. I could never get this feel from a wider, thinner board. But one of my best friends, the guy I taught to surf, the editor of surfboard design for Surfer Magazine in like '78-85, loves thin, wide, super thin railed crowned decked rounded pins. I can’t stand to ride his boards! Meaning, try one or the other, and make up your own mind.
I would say keep your dimentions and add a couple of inches to your 6’1".I’m 6’0" 165LBS and my shortboard is 6’6" x 19 x 2 1/2. I had a friend from south africa that was your height and about 150LBS .He rode the same dimentions as me but with a crowned deck with tiny rails and he ripped! Since then at my weight I would’nt consider going thinner or narrower.At least for head high waves! I would say get a 6’3" x19" x 2 1/2 and if you don’t like it sell it and get a toothpick.
and the carpenter said “thats what he said” now what I wanna know is what did she say?.. ambrose?
Something just flew over my head???
Also remember to figure in the main bottom contour which has a strong effect on the feel, the entry, and the ride. I’m about the same weight 170 and I use a 2 1/2 thick x 18 3/4 wide shortboard with a flat or vee bottom, but find I need to go down in width and thickness to 2 3/8" thick max x 18 1/2 wide on boards with a deep single concave to make them manageable, since to me, they tend to ride higher.
To answer your question…thicker would be my option…there’s not a huge diff between 18 3/4 and 19…splitting hairs. I would not opt for 19.25 wide, go with thicker. I would go wide if the waves were more average or less punchy. You may realize thats its all about compromises…a thicker board will paddle better but perhaps ride too high when the waves are steep and fast. If too high, then a harder rail will hold when others may not. I find it interesting that you think it feels long…could it be back foot placement? Fin placement? Fin placement can have a major affect on feel and performance as well…look into it. FYI, Im a young 40 y/o, I’m 5’11 @ 175 lb and ride 6’6 x 19.5 x 2.5 in general conditions and narrower in good conditions.
Why not compromise and do a little of each, stepping up to 19 is nothing, add a little more foam in the center, i.e. crown the deck, maybe consider easing out the entry rocker… though if it’s for punchy hollow waves you might want that rocker. Usually when I think of punchy hollow waves I think of an easy paddle in? …the old 3-stroke late entry? One of the main reasons I started shaping was so that I could experiment, and I could learn what the different aspects of a surfboard do to its riding style…. Make both, one thicker, one wider. Then go from there…