i love the soft drape and the reported strength gain but the strings are driving me crazy. I’m using epoxy and can’t keep clipping them and drenching my sicsors in acetone.
Any use tips from the pros?
All the best
Direct sized yarn, goes through the bath to add the sizing ( starch), but does not go through another heating to burn off contaminates, it also comes unravelled very easily during laminating
Yeah. Not worth the extra hassle and it cost more the last time I checked. Having said that; my supplier has told me there are a few shops using it. A pair of electric scissors will help eliminate the strings. If you are doing cut laps you could tape the edge of your cloth.
Love the stuff.
Nearly as strong as S-glass.
Half the price.
Sharp scissors, push laps toward ends of board, not straight inward.
I just lift the strings with my finger, and push them back in place.
Cloth is slippery, can shift when dry if not careful.
Makes for a very durable board.
I use it with orange density US Blanks.
Light and strong.
Thx Barry. I’ve taken to weighing it down with foam blocks on the glass with light weights. Keeps it from moving around while I trim.
When I first started using it, I would pin it down with long sewing pins.
Resin holds it down after initial pour.
we have 1 manufacturer that specs D-Glass on their boards. Its a bit more hassle but not much. Barry said pretty much all there is. sharp clean cuts and push towards nose or tail and not in. Same we do. Mostly epoxy as well on the glass. if you are one of the guys that flips your laps up on to the rail then you are going to have issues otherwise. should be good as long as you are not being overly aggressive.
How’s the wetout compare to the regular alternatives?
Greg, where are you getting yours (if you don’t mind me asking).
I’m always looking for ways to complicate my next build.
Newschool, it wets out very nice. Drapes very very nice. Supposedly makes a stronger board. I got mine from FiberglassHawaii. I’d be happy to share a bit with you. Give me a call. I, too, enjoy complicating things. AKA tinkering.
all the best
Acqua, Barry, part of my problem is that I am too aggressive with it. I work the lap from underneath with my gloved and very wet hand to ensure good lap wet out without letting much hit the tray. I guess I developed some questionable habits with the other fibers. But never had more than a few drops hit the tray. Epoxy.
all the best
Barry’s statement “half the price” is troubling.
I think Barry was referencing comparson to s-cloth, whereas you were comparing to standard e-cloth.
A quick check at FGH shows s-cloth roll price at 6.65 / yd for 6 oz. 30", d-sized at 4.55 / yd for same size. So not half in that case, but significantly less.
In comparison to e-cloth, which costs 2.75 / yd roll price for 6 oz. 30", it is significantly more.
Ok. Understood. I had someone tell me recently that they could buy Volan for the same price as E in 30". First time I had heard that.
Here is a tip that is now working for me. I don’t use acetone and was reluctant to ruin sicissors each time I glassed. But I have a bunch of cheapo sicissors form Harbor Freight and as I have been glassing the Davo tribute board, I clip them after wetting out the cloth but before wrapping the rail and then wipe the sicissors really good and after finishing the lam I wash them in a little vinegar. I think I can get several boards done with a pair before having to pitch. This is work really well. Still loving the DS cloth though. Conforms so well to fin boxes and other curves.
all the best.
E-glass + surf epoxy over PU always seems a little soft but apart from that I’ve never really had a problem with fragility or delams or whatnot when using E-cloth.
I’m almost considering going back to VE resins to get a little more stiffness back. Does anyone have any input on better matching fibers with VE or epoxy?
Better fiberglass with epoxy is sglass, you need to use a resin with higher élongation to break than fiber, it´s main rule. If you want a stiffer skin, to a tumb test, increase thickness of skin.