Skunked huh? Last week I took a trip south to escape the cold. When
my buddy and I got on the plane my spine was kind of hurting. (I had
3 ribs that were displaced from a surf accident many seasons ago but
thought it was manageable.)
By the time we got off the plane I could hardly walk. Then after 2 hours
in a rental car I knew I was in trouble. My friend is a total fitness/endurance
guy thought I could make it and we pushed on.
That evening I decided to sit it out and watch my friend surf empty head high
clean rights with no one else out. He trunked it. There wasn’t even anyone
else on the beach.
For the next 4 days the surf got no smaller than head high and at times
almost DOH. Offshore the whole time. I sat out EVERY FRICKIN’ DAY. At
least the sand was warm and the sun shining.
Then, on the last day I had some beers and said, “screw it man” and paddled
out. The most insane wave came right to me, my buddy screaming while he
was on the inside. I bellied it down and just got to me feet in the trough.
I stood for about 4 seconds and tumbled off. Underwater I remember thinking
“WHAT A KOOK!!! I SUCK!!” I paddled straight in.
That evening I decided to have a hot shower before heading back to the airport.
While packing I felt a couple of twinges. By some miracle the pain and spasm lock
slowly let loose its’ grip and I walked to the check-in in an upright position.
Anyways, when I got back home I visited an old sports med guy who worked
on a lot of our local sports athletes. He looked at me like "What were you
thinking??!" and went to work.
After about four hours the old man managed to set me up with a bit of relief
and good path of healing (a few really old injuries I never did anything about).
So, after spending over a grand in travel and a few days I may be able to surf
soon, and right away I am good enough to go back to work. When I was driving
to work the next morning my buddy from the trip calls me to reflect on how that
was one of the better trips he’s had in a long time.
What a contrast. ha hah.
The surf was good, guys were ripping, but personally, I got so skunked…
(on the up side I found a lot of health issues and hopefully got enough of
them taken care of)
I’ve scored so many times in the past. There’s always next time.
